Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

jim w wrote:Heat shrink tubing over a spring.

Thats clever. Have you tried it?

I've seen guys use guitar strings before.

Never mind, that won't be thick enough. You may try threaded rod lengths from the hardware store.

I now wonder if it may have had some release agent/film on it from the manufacturing process. Hopefully you rinsed the future off before it dried and you can scrub the part with some soap and water then try again.

When you say bead up, does it look like air bubbles or orange peel?

Or something else?

If its old future you might need to thin it with some water.

My first thought was maybe hi humidity but Marco's idea is probably most likely.

Really nice scratch build.

Everything you need to know about airbrushing is on YouTube. I spent lots of time watching tutorials myself. You may even want to search your area for a local ipms or amps plastic model club because those guys will also share knowledge.

Paint thinner is not supposed to affect acrylics so if it were me I would give it a try.

You might want to look at these.

http://img.hobbylobby.com/sys-master/ro ... 3_2[5].jpg

I like the steam punk stuff too.

That Bolter looks more like an ork Slugga.

I know this is a few months old but I saw this a few weeks ago. Use Snap-N-Pops! Those little twisted pieces of paper with the little rocks inside. Loved these as a kid. Tape the tale to you your model and then use your finger, snap a rubber band on it, etc to pop it. It will leave a nice little bl...

Can't help you with that one as most armor guys I know always replace the kit tracks with aftermarket ones.

Perhaps the problem you ran into is some of the reason why.

You don't think gluing them to the wheels on the kit will keep them in place? IDK.

I never purchased any beginners books. I don't even know if they exist. However, I improved my skills rather quickly by joining my local model club. Guys in the club have been building for many years and are quite willing to share "secrets" to anyone willing to listen. Also going to model ...

Never heard of that one. Too rich for my blood anyway. I've got a green and brown ink from Liquitex and they worked great for shading some Space orks I was working on. I had to thin them quite a bit to use as washes and glazes.

Just remember that starter set is the regular resin and what they call quick set rubber. I highly recommend their Amazing casting resin,( I called alumilite and its really their alumilite white in a unique package for hobby lobby). And if you are making a two part mold don't forget to use a mold rel...

The Allumilte regular casting resin only has a 90 second pot life before it starts to set. You can manipulate a little by putting part A in the refrigerator but not much. I would suggest Allumilite white, its also sold as Amazing casting resin in Hobby Lobby, the pot life is 3 minutes and picks up e...

Me either. I use a small Craftsman compressor to spray. Its more useful to me because I can air up tires, pool floats etc. And airbrush.

I can't help you as most of the time I spray styrene with the cheap stuff in the can from the Dollar General. It goes on very thin when used properly without hiding detail. For resin I use a hotter automotive primer.

Don't know but I thought I seen a model of it somewhere and a quick google search turned up the model on a website called entertainmentearth.com but that model is a prepainted statue of the sr2 about 6 inches long so pretty small compared to what you want. It's a cool design.

Crowe-t. I use both future or Testors acrylic thinner depending on the finish I want. I was thinking that perhaps the undercoats of paint prior to your dull coat wasn't cured could be a problem. Only you would know for sure. Other than that I would just make sure the bottle was well shaken. The only...

Thats all I've used for a few years now without problem. Are you spraying on days with high humidity because that could keep things from curing.

Wug I just checked my Eclipse and the needle goes all the way in the nozzle when pulled completely back. The whole range of motion looks about 1/16 of an inch. Does yours do the same?

What does the tip do when you pull back the trigger? It sounds like the needle is not pulling back, if so then check your collet that clamps on the back of the needle to make sure its tight to ensure you have the full range of needle action. Also does it only do that with certain paints?

hoth rebel wrote:how did it work?

I was painting figures at the time and it worked great. I used black over silver metallic.

I did actually, and more than once. I used Future to thin mine out.

I would say it's Steampunkish. Thanks for posting.

You most likely are experiencing tip dry. The acrylics are notorious for that I will always keep some thinner on a napkin and wipe the tip during pauses or when I feel I might be getting tip dry. Other than that, you are the first person that I've ever heard of having problem with opacity with Tamiy...

I pretty much only spray Tamiya and testors acrylics without the problems you describe. What size is your needle?

The guys here are correct. Use laquer-I was thinking they were thinned enamels airbrush ready. I only have two bottles of the stuff that I bought about 15 years ago.

I would think mineral spirits and laquer thinner would do. Either one.

In my early days of model building i would often glue primed parts together and i can tell you that the bond is weak doing it that way. I still see people doing it but i dont anymore.