Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Thanks for the input tetsujin. I went ahead and loaded the HI-Tech version and it all seems to work fine.

Cheers,

I'm going through Predko's book, 123 PIC Microcontroller Experiments for the Evil Genius . The various projects in the book call for using the MPLAB IDE suite in conjunction with the PICC Lite Compiler. I'd like to use the software mentioned in the book to make completing the projects easier without...

Check this out

This one might be more than you need but the engine effect would be cool.

These lighting kits are drop dead easy to use.

It looks like your number crunching is right but I'd suspect your LEDs may not last as long at the higher current level. It would be nice to find out what the current rating for the LEDs actually is. I would also suggest you give the motor in an independent power supply.

Hope that helps,

Scott Hasty wrote:Fiberfill, Fiberfill, Fiberfill...

...did I say Fiberfill?

So did I!

Try filling the area behind the dish (around the LED) with a dispersive material like fiberfill, teased cotton balls, or tissue. Alternatively, make a bowl-shaped area behind the dish out of aluminum foil. Then insert the LED through the center of the bowl, facing backwards, so its light faces towar...

John,

Nicely done! I'm gonna need one of those.

I would try to shape the tether from a piece of wire coat hanger.

If you don't want to go the online route, and much as I hate sending business their way, Radio Shack sells the stuff.

This kit is less pricey and it requires a bit more work but it's a pretty slick alternative.

Here's a thought: You could try using wire nuts as the cap. Carefully drill one or two small holes, just large enough for the FO strands, in the top of the nut (if you use the kind with a metal helix inside, be sure to remove that first). You can cement the FO to the nuts with white glue. Then secur...

I agree with the shrink tubing tip. There's really nothing better that I can think of. You may have to use multiple sizes of shrink tubing to make this method work securely though. If your FO bundle is to small, the tubing you use to cover the LED won't be able to hold the FO. The fix for this is to...

Without seeing a picture of what you're describing, it's kind of hard to give ideas. The cockpit tub from an A-6E, EA-6B or F-111 kit comes to mind. Of course your working scale would dictate kit availability for those. I know you can find donor kits for any of those planes in 1/48 or 1/72.

How about running the fan in the spray booth for 5 - 10 minutes before painting to suck out the stuff in the near air before spraying? Then after spraying, cover the front of the spray booth so nothing else gets in while it's drying. That's what I recommend as well. I usually run the booth's fan fo...

I followed Ziz's lead and built one a few years ago. It's basically the same set up.

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For something like this, your best best is to buy one of these and run the wires through the base. No switch needed. Just snap a 9er on there and you're up and running.

I have yet to find a lighting 'kit' out there that is truly plug 'n play. That being said, in my limited experience, THE simplest solution available is the Deluxe 8 from Madman Lighting , available in the SSM store . It will work for your project but there will still be a little planning on your par...

um...

Ask Randy



I'm just sayin

John, There's nothing wrong with selling a competing product. Randy does things differently than you do and his products are very good but that doesn't mean you can't sell a rig of your own design that does something similar. I say do it.

Intersting. I was under the impression that the fuser in a laserjet would cook the frisket. I guess thats not the case? You're right. It's not a good idea to use frisket film in a laser printer. In my experience the film can gum things up pretty badly. If you have to use frisket film, I recommend p...

John,

Congrats! Good luck with the new gig.

Interesting. I would think since people are always asking what power supply to include with their projects, your solution would be a no brainer.

Oh well. To each his own. I'd buy one like what you described for $10 to $15. I don't know what your margin on such things would be though.

Outstanding idea, John.

another alternative would be to re-prime with Mr. Sufacer 500, do a light sanding then maybe hit it again with Mr. Surfacer 1000. Since you've already primed, you may be able to get away with just a coat of the 1000.

Build a buck (or stamp if you will) in the shape of your indentation out of thick styrene and glue some kind of handle to it. Roll out another very thin sheet of Aves and make a veneer on your model. Then, before the Aves has cured, use the buck to stamp the indentations into the surface.

Join the two pieces with Aves Apoxy Sculpt. Fill and shape the seam with same (I use dental tools dipped in alcohol to do the shaping). Then line the entire underside of the base with more Aves in very thinly rolled out sheets. You can do this with a baker's rolling pin and two sheets of waxed paper...

Brian, I don't know which brand/model frame you have but typically, those frames don't get their power from the USB cable. It would be self defeating and redundant for the frame to rely on power from the computer to operate. The cable is just used to transfer pictures from your computer to the memor...

The only thing I can tell you is after you try it, you'll be hungry again in about an hour. Oh wait... Ok, I'll go Seriously, I'd be willing to bet money that the fiber packed in those lighting kits AMT/ERTL used a few years back were probably from China. That should give you a pretty good guage of ...

Swishing the parts around in a little vinegar works well too. Don't leave them in too long though as the parts may start to etch a little. Just a few minutes should be good enough. Next, be sure to rinse with water (distilled is best, if you have it). Then pat dry with a lint free rag or towel. Last...

This is cool! Thanks Sparky and Zog. I can see this being applied to the consoles and displays in the Seaview control room.


Groovy