Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Shrinkage!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cUNNKzj_Nc

Okay, I think I see... you have the LEDs in your saucer tied to a distribution block of some kind inside the saucer itself and you only have a positive & negative wire coming out of the sealed saucer. There is a way to calculate the value of the resistor to use in this case, but I don't know how...

The various online calculators should provide the answers. I have used the calculators here often: http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz

If your batteries are outside of the model, can't you just add the resistor(s) in-line with the power supply wiring going into the model? I understand that you always put a resistor with LEDs to keep them from getting too much current (not voltage). It has been my experience that over-driving a LED,...

The cheapest airbrush that Hobby Lobby sells is the Paasche plastic external mix, which is essentially the same operating qualities as a Badger 350. Whatever difficulties you had with the Paasche external-mix will probably carry over to the Badger external-mix. You'll need to thin your enamel roughl...

But about the "tri-grit polishing sticks" are those grits higher than 2500 wet-sand paper? I looked online but didnt really find the grit listing for those. Could you know a link to one, can you post it? http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=SQ30505 This is much, much finer than 25...

I'd strip the Future off the part with an ammonia-based window cleaner, clean the part really well with dishwashing detergent, and dip it again. I've dipped & stripped parts two or three times before I was satisfied. And maybe get one of those tri-grit polishing sticks that I mentioned before an...

Yeah, that's why I think kenno3 will probably have his best luck with just putting a nice coat of Future over it and calling it done.

I use it. It doesn't polish, it just protects the surface. The OP reported in his first post that he already used Novus 1 and it didn't do anything.

Novus 1 is not a polish but a protectant. It prevents static build-up on plastic clear parts and that helps keep dust and dirt from sticking to them; it works really well as the final wipe on helmet visors and plastic windscreens but it doesn't actually polish anything.

Don't brush the Future onto the part because that will definitely leave subtle brush strokes. Instead, pour enough Future into a container to fully submerge the part and then lift it out and allow the excess to drip off the edges. You should immediately put the part somewhere safe & covered to d...

There is another paint, similar to Alclad Chrome, called Spaz-Stik or something like that. I've seen some head-to-head tests of it against Alclad Chrome and it is actually shinier than the Alclad. Supposedly it is easier to apply, too, and does not have the peculiar undercoating issues that you some...

It is generally accepted that you use the liquid polishes like Novus 2 after you have done the micro-mesh work. Novus 2 is nowhere near as abrasive as 2000-grit paper; it is more like 12 to 15,000-grit. But it will still scratch if you rub it in too hard. Another thing you might want to try to resto...

The Meguiars Fine-Cut Cleaner #02 is quite abrasive; more like a polishing compound for removing surface defects. The Meguiars #10 is practically the same thing as Novus 2 or Meguiars PlastX, maybe even a little more abrasive. I think you are jumping directly from the 2500 grit paper to the polish w...

SC305 sounds like the stuff. I read in the PDF infosheet that you can add pigment to the mixture. What would I use of I want it to look like aluminum? Actual powdered aluminum, or one of the metallic-colored Pearl-Ex powdered pigments. Here's a Smooth-On video showing the process: http://www.youtub...

Since it's a Badger product, you should contact them directly with your problem. Their customer support is outrageously good, and they will probably get you back up and running in no time!

I think anything that generates heat (resin, plaster) might prematurely breach the integrity of the balloon's envelope, or in other words, make it pop! FWIW, I made a big piñata in high school using balloons that were papier-mâchéd into strong hollow spheres.

Lots of good info in this thread. Does Micro Mask contain ammonia like many of the other liquid masking products? If so, that's why it attacks acrylics so badly. I saw a video of a guy who used acrylics to airbrush large-scale figure models, and he was using latex mold builder to mask different area...

Davey, what you're describing sounds like a clogged nozzle. Are you certain the tip/nozzle is completely clean? If in doubt, clean it some more, preferably by soaking the tip in some lacquer thinner for a while. Make sure you're just soaking metal and no type of o-ring or seal along with it. If you ...

I certainly don't speak for everyone else, but I like my models to be strong and resilient. If I'm putting lighting components inside, I want them secured in there with epoxy so there's no chance of them breaking loose. I leave my fibers sticking out a good inch or so and I have no trouble painting ...

Crystal Clear is nastier than the regular Smooth-On stuff, so you were wise to take the precautions. Matter of fact, their website has this big warning: "CAUTION: NOT FOR HOME USE. THIS PRODUCT IS FOR INDUSTRIAL USE ONLY." Once the resin has hardened it's normally safe to handle as long as...

Most likely. Denatured alcohol works well and won't hurt plastic. Was the epoxy package old?

Got a Hobby Lobby nearby? Snag their 40% coupon and get the Alumilite High Strength 3 tin silicone kit. It's $30 retail but the coupon drops it to $18. Still way too expensive because it's only one pound, but it is good quality stuff (the only thing from Alumilite I've ever liked anyway).

Also investigate what http://www.smooth-on.com carries. I'm sure they have something standard for casting tires and such and they'll probably be cheaper then MicroMark. MicroMark carries a lot of unusual stuff but they've never exactly been a bargain. Tell me about it :roll: ... The "tire"...

Probably the safest way to strip it would be a dunk in the old "purple pond," which is Castrol Super Clean or Purple Power degreaser. This stuff will take the enamel right off but the clear resin should be unaffected.

Wow Jospeh that turned out nicely! Now I really want to get some! How does Tamiya primer or other lacquers stick to it? Any experience? Thanks; I have never tried to paint it myself since all the parts I have ever made with delrin were meant for molding. I did a quick google and found that painting...

I think you'll find the ink will bead up on the styrene, sort of run at the edges, and take forever to dry. The substrate has to have an absorption layer to work with inkjet ink, and the fixative spray you mentioned may or may not provide the proper absorption. I've heard of people having some succe...

What you want is a very sharp bull nose (rounded) bit to peel the plastic off. Sometime known as a finishing bit for fine finishes on metal IIRC. I shaped my own with a Dremel grinding tool and a file. ...Which won't work if you are turning a shoulder and want a sharp transition. The round-nose too...

Since this thread has been resurrected, I'll chime in too: my experience with delrin on my Taig lathe has been good. It cuts like butter but it actually cuts better with a dull tool because a sharp point "digs" into the surface and leaves a rough finish. As mentioned, you can't glue delrin...

That's a lot of questions! I can tell you about the mold release: You may not need one. But if you do, use PVA. It's a green liquid that dries to a very thin film and it's best to spray it so that you don't get brush marks. I've sprayed it with an airbrush but I used a big nozzle so that I could cov...