Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

The only time I had trouble masking Testors metallizers was when I used Scotch tape. On the other hand, I stopped using Testors for the most part when I started using Alclad II. It is superior in every way.

Ive been experimenting with different tapes. Ive found the scotts painter blue tape to work best so far. Any other suggestions? Tamiya tape is awesome. Thin, made of rice paper, not too sticky, easy to cut, forms to curves pretty well, everything a modeling tape should be. For those areas too trick...

Here is my tube cutter.

ZOmBe is correct. You have to do a little of both. Look at each step of the assembly with an eye towards painting. Will it be easier or harder to build with this part painted? Interior parts, like cockpits and engines, are almost always easier to paint before installation. Sometimes it is easier to ...

The use of oils, pastels, and other pigments isn't really postshading. They are most commonly used for various weathering applications, although they can be used to modulate the color, as you suggest. What you are describing, applying acrylics with a brush to tint the model, is drybrushing. Drybrush...

Chiver, you never said how big the windows are. The method for filling in 1:1400 starship windows is going to be completely different from filling in a 1:48 fighter canopy. What are you working on?

Those look well done. I'm not in the market for them, but hopefully you'll get some takers.

I'd go with option c: bulkheads along a central structural member.

With Model Master enamels, I put a small, stainless steel nut in the jar. (You can use BBs or steel shot, I use 1/4-20 nuts because I've got a bunch lying around). This helps agitate the paint when shaking, scrapes the pigment off the bottom and sides, really mixes it well. I use eye droppers to tra...

I'd go with the white primer too. As you build up color, with the base coat, washes and filters, etc, the ship will progressively get darker. Best to start out light and work down.

Sorry Redfinger, I missed that. You're right, a solid model won't work for that.

double post

From what I see in the picture, there is no need for the model to be hollow. If you can build a buck for vacuforming, then you can build the basic shape and to heck with vacuforming.

I do this all the time and have no trouble with it. But I've also been thinning my MM enamels with lacquer thinner for the past several years. I think if you gloss coat with Future for decal application, then tone the finish down with a final coat of semi-gloss lacquer, you won't have any problem at...

In English terms, the software resolution is .00004 inches. This means that the software can instruct the machine to move in increments as small as forty millionths of an inch. This is typical for CNC software. The mechanical resolution claims to be much greater, allowing stepovers as little as seve...

Alas. Star Fest maybe?

I used to have the same problem, many long years ago. I guess it depends on where you live. In Colorado, the winters are pretty mild. It's not unusual to see days in January and February when the temperature hovers in the mid 50's or warmer.

Good job on it. Yes, the aluminum scratching looks very nice. And the screw heads are subdued after painting, just as you said. Can you bring it with you to CoMMiESFest? I'd like to have a look at it.

As someone who has built a full sized one of these, you're right. There doesn't seem to be any way to get it to look not cartoony. I think yours looks proportionally just right.

Spray can or airbrush?

Stupid double post
Stupid double post.

Yes you can. In fact, you should.

I've used them in a pinch. I even found some in the bottom of an old box, something like 27 years old. Thinned about 50/50 with lacquer thinner, sprayed at about 15psi. They worked, that's about it. I wouldn't want to use them for a large project.

I stand corrected!

Why not just use one of these? Leadwell V-60 . Sturdy, fast, accurate to within .0001", optional 4th axis, standard 6000rpm spindle or optional 10,000rpm spindle. Requires a large machine shop to operate. Ok, just kiddin'. That Syil America machine looks really nice. About twice as expensive as...

If you decide on a laser engraver, I would recommend Epilog too. But I'm biased.

I see no one has answered this yet. But I'm not exactly the guy to answer either. I don't build Trek ships. I guess it is the same with anything, measure twice, cut once. Drill a series of holes for each window. Keep them straight by fixing a steel rule along side the window, and keep the drill agai...

If you had to pick one of the two, get the CNC. It can do everything the laser cutter can do, not so the other way 'round. The biggest advantage to the laser machine is it probably has a larger work area, and a much shallower learning curve. If you can operate a printer, you can operate a laser engr...

Keep practicing, you'll get better!

You're right about potmetal not holding paint down very well. I think in this case you're better off using automotive lacquers from a spray can. I could easily be wrong, but I just don't see airbrushed finishes holding up to a lot of heavy use.