Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

It could be that the latex mask reacted with the paint on top of that - happens after some days, had a similar problem some time ago with Humbrol's masking fluid. The rubber becomes relatively hard and adheres vehemently to the surface below, making the peeling process REALLY troublesome. My advice:...

Black "sucks up" a lot of light. It really depends on what you want to achieve. If it is just for light blocking, a black coat will be fine (make sure to seal seams!), but if you use the model als a "lamp", white might be a better option for even light distribution. For blocking ...

That's a tricky one! IMHO, just adding a coat of tinted varnish won't create the desired look, it's tricky. I had a similar problem when I wanted to build a "used" NASCAR race car, and getting that dirty windscreen look after 200 rounds in an oval with oil, dust, rubber etc. is NOT easy. I...

Could also be a material reaction. You mention that it has been 3D printed - maybe the material contains a lot of softener (PVC style), and this generally does not work well with enamels. They won't adhere/bind wit the surface, unless you apply a coat of acrylic primer as a neutral "borderline ...

Simply scratching off the top layer is extremely "not recommended". Some might like to do it, but from your questions you are new at weatheing and literally scratching off the paint withuot causing damage is a really skilled operation. Second that - it works, but is a delicate measure. Yo...

Really depends on the scale and the topic, IMHO. On small scales you can achieve good results through dry-brushed paint, for larger scales (say, 1:35 and up) you can use the hairspray or salt masking technique to achive a truly flaked look. For the latter I'd recommend an airbrush - hairspray is ver...

You should also remove the masking after the paints is no longer runny, but before the paint dries completely; it come off much easier and the edges are crisper. You've got to keep your fingers out of the soft paint, though :D Best method in order to avoid hard edges! And agree to the toothpick met...

In this case, it's the plastic that glows, not any paint. While there is flourescent paint available (either in a rattle can or for brush application), this won't be opaque, AFAIK from my own experiments with this stuff. I'd say that you have to make a major compromise: either have a glowing kit thr...

If it's flat paint, you might add the next coat pretty quickly - if it is the same sort of paint. If they are of different type, give it at least 25h to settle thoroughly, and generously more if you work with a gloss paint. That can take a week - even if the paint is not sticky anymore to touch, it ...

Yes, rattle cans can "die". Had this case only once, though, with a very old acrylic paint that was already a couple of years old when I bought it. Worked fine when freshly used, but then, months/years later, when I wanted to use the paint again, it sputtered and was done. I assume that th...

Has anyone used RTV silicone to fill a hollow model to give it some weight? I would stay away from this idea. While you might pump the stuff easily into a kit, I's have concerns with long-time effects. Silicone contains a softener (lots of it, as this is what keeps the stuff flexible and "tigh...

Agree with the brush choice, and paint viscosity is another major factor - adding some drops of water might help a lot. Concerning brushes, I made good experience with synthetic fibres when painting with acrylics. But it's also about the paint application - do not expect a "one-stroke-and-it's-...

Floral foam is a PITA. It tends to be VERY brittle (getting worse if the stuff ages or is exposed to sunlight for some time), very touchy, and it is designed to soak up ANYTHING, thoroughly, so that surface work is rather cruel. Construction foam (the expanding stuff) is "better" as it - o...

I usually suggest people rely more on shading than weathering with that scale and subject. Second that - I'd counter-shade panels with a slightly lighter color than the basic tone "below" (either with an air brush, or by hand and brush), and maybe just apply a VERY thin ink wash that just...

Kylwell: Can you tell me One of the bonuses of the salt method is that it realistically damages the surrounding paint. The little craters and scratches it leaves in the paint look just like actual paint wear. As you pointed out, a wash enhances the effect. That's the point - and also the reason why...

Yes, it works with brushes, even though you get best results through an airbrush. It's also best for larger scales - it comes from 1:35 military vehicles, developed to mimic rust and flaking paint. My use on the 1:72 Mustang is a bit off, but the result (with brush and enamels - messy, but feasible)...

Yikes. Masking fluid should come right off by just rolling it off with your finger. Second that. It might grip well to an "open" or matt surface below, rub rubbing it should loosen enough to peel it off. In some cases I use a simple tooth pick (from wood) to work under the dry fluid. Wors...

Gloss enamels can be tricky and deceiving. Better let the paint dry the full 48 hours. Matt enamels dry up much quicker, but the glossy variants take a long time to thoroughly dry through. The surface might appear solid and dry, and just brushing light details might be O.K. But the deeper levels are...

Looks like a hair spray job to me, and the fine acryllics, apllied with an air brush. Very special technique, you need IMHO the right equipment for good results (as fine as on the pics). A more coarse option is the salt technique, with uses salt to cover a an underlying coat of metal or rust. surfca...

I don't recommend tube glues at all. Second that. Hard to control, and the stuff tends to be too "Stiff". Personally, I prefer a glue called "Supranol" from a German model railroad building supplier named Vollmer. Tried a lot of things, and this is the best I could find in 30+ y...

My tip: do NOT use a full/pure white at all, rather go for a very light gray. Pure white makes model kits look pretty toylike, and if there's no color reference, the very light gray will look like white - but the kit will overall look less "harsh". And the gray will create a more even fini...

To be on the safe side, use an acryllic varnish, nothing based on oil. The latter is good stuff, but in order to minimize any undesired reaction, a water-based varnish is the way to go. Not certain what to propose, since I write from Germany. Revell Aqua varnishes are good, though. Using a spray (ra...

Morning everyone. I am looking for a way to cut small diameter brass tubing. I've tried using a hack saw, works fine, but I need to cut smaller pieces for a flash suppressor on several barrels for the AMT/Ertl MF. I've tried a rotorary tool, but I am not getting a a good cut. (Might be the no-name ...

Depends on the window size. Small stuff, like 1:144 airliner side windows can easily be "filled" with simple white glue. It's not clear, but the result is O.K. and the impression much better than just bare holes... Humbrol also used to have a special, thick clear varnish that was intended ...

If there's any top coat, that has to go first - either carefull using a solvent or even (wet) sand paper. Once the decal is free, you might - instead of the tape trick with its hazards to underlying paint (esp. w/o primer) - try to soak the decal wet, e .g. with a piece of wet paper tissue or cotton...

An addendum, using the CG option: the Lightning's afterburner flames come from a real Lightning, which was photographed in almost the same angle, so the flames "fit" into the seting. Copy/paste - but it IS convincing... :P http://www.flickr.com/photos/dizzyfugu/8524225775/in/photostream ht...

Simple plaster is also a good material for internal reinforcements - not certain if expanding foam does not react with the vinyl over time? It's a perfect material for this purpose, though, just (IMHO very) messy... For paint: ONLY use acryllic paint, at least for a primer coat. Once you have a firm...

Simple plaster is also a good material for internal reinforcements - not certain if expanding foam does not react with the vinyl over time? It's a perfect material for this purpose, though, just (IMHO very) messy... For paint: ONLY use acryllic paint, at least for a primer coat. Once you have a firm...

Yup, the Testors stuff is oil-based, just as the enamels, and the Testors/Model Master enamels (esp. those from the Authentic Line) are prone to dissolve under enamel-style varnish. To be safe, use a water-based varnish, e .g. some acryllic stuff. Tamiya has a very goos semi-gloss acryllic varnish.

I achieved some good results with polishing cotton: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dizzyfugu/3678680064/in/set-72157602345947808 http://www.flickr.com/photos/dizzyfugu/4508366350/in/set-72157602345947808/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/dizzyfugu/1531573775/in/set-72157602345947808 Works also well for gu...