Search found 1259 matches

by TER-OR
Fri Jul 07, 2017 12:39 pm
Forum: Finishing
Topic: Advanced. Weathering. Pastels
Replies: 78
Views: 55915

Re: Advanced. Weathering. Pastels

A bit of soap and scrub with a soft toothbrush maybe?
by TER-OR
Tue Aug 25, 2015 9:22 am
Forum: Finishing
Topic: Painting/detailing using water colors?
Replies: 9
Views: 3170

I use transparent watercolors for weathering panel lines just like many use the fine oils. Dilute in 50% water, 25% Flo-Aid, 25% Slo-Dri for maximum workability. This might be overkill. When doing panel lines of course use over highly glossed surface. Residual can be removed with barely dampened cot...
by TER-OR
Fri Jun 12, 2015 7:22 pm
Forum: Construction
Topic: Will a centrifuge get rid of bubbles?
Replies: 10
Views: 4552

I think Dream Pod 9 uses their spincasters for both metal and resin. Great resin casting that way, but the molds are BIG.
by TER-OR
Fri Jun 12, 2015 7:02 pm
Forum: Finishing
Topic: Is it just me or do acrylics not cover nearly as well?
Replies: 22
Views: 8797

Another problem can be the way Tamiya Flat paints look. They have so much opaque agent in them it always seems like you've got a good coat with one pass. You don't. You will need a couple coats. Recently I have been adding Future to Tamiya flat paints, just to give them some extra glossyness and med...
by TER-OR
Wed Apr 08, 2015 9:52 pm
Forum: Scratchbuilding
Topic: Quick and Dirty Resin Casting?
Replies: 9
Views: 4645

Super Sculpy? I'd be careful. At craft stores you can get silicone mold putty, it comes in two jars. You knead and then press over the part - or vice versa. There's also an interesting heat-melt mold which is very promising. Remember Envirotex Light take quite a while to cure unless it's a thin laye...
by TER-OR
Wed Apr 08, 2015 9:42 pm
Forum: Finishing
Topic: YADQ: why thin Acrylics?
Replies: 5
Views: 2393

Some acrylics need to be thinned to be properly used. Gaming acrylics, particularly. Also, some paints are a bit thick to airbrush - and some can evaporate over time, I've found that with Tamiya in particular.

Not all use similar thinners, though.
by TER-OR
Mon Nov 03, 2014 9:36 pm
Forum: Finishing
Topic: decals over flat paint.....need advice
Replies: 3
Views: 2359

Gloss
Decal
Gloss
Dull

Don't expect a single coat of dull to do the trick, two or more light coats will do the trick.
by TER-OR
Wed Aug 20, 2014 8:11 pm
Forum: Finishing
Topic: Acrylic Primers?
Replies: 6
Views: 3047

I've used Vallejo's primers, and while they airbrush very well they don't adhere nearly as well... OTOH, most acrylic paints I've used from Tamiya, Gunze and Testors did adhere quite nicely. If I don't have a lot of resin and metal on the plastic, I'll just paint. If I do, it's Tamiya or Gunze's pri...
by TER-OR
Wed Jun 25, 2014 8:39 pm
Forum: Finishing
Topic: Alclad polishing?
Replies: 15
Views: 6583

GLOVES! ALWAYS GLOVES!

(Caps intended) You would not believe (or maybe you would) how many models get bounced from awards by fingerprints.
by TER-OR
Sun Jun 08, 2014 7:37 pm
Forum: Finishing
Topic: What can use to seal sharpie markers?
Replies: 6
Views: 3410

Future can work, but if it builds up it will attack the sharpie. I have had no problems with Micron pens, though. But be careful and apply light coats. Polyscale flat works well, bit it's matte.
by TER-OR
Fri May 16, 2014 3:25 pm
Forum: Finishing
Topic: Need to remove tape adhesive from paint job
Replies: 5
Views: 2509

Goo Gone might work too. If the acrylic paint is well enough cured, it should be safe.
by TER-OR
Tue May 13, 2014 8:42 pm
Forum: Finishing
Topic: salt masking question
Replies: 9
Views: 3530

I usually make a paste of the salt, a little water and a tiny amount of dish soap. Then apply with a brush. Be careful not to get much salt water on your model, it likely will show up under the paint. Here's a heavily salt-weathered model: https://www.flickr.com/photos/ter-or/sets/72157603704701438/...
by TER-OR
Tue May 13, 2014 8:38 pm
Forum: Finishing
Topic: Using Gundam markers for preshading panel lines?
Replies: 12
Views: 6634

I've done this: Base coat acrylic. Micron pen black on panel lines. (Similar to Sharpie ink) Overcoat with post-shading, also acrylic. Did not need to do panel line washes, the overcoat tinted the black very nicely. Hotter solvent paints like lacquer might be a little more tricky, but maybe not. You...
by TER-OR
Tue May 13, 2014 8:36 pm
Forum: Finishing
Topic: Clear sprays over Acrylic
Replies: 7
Views: 3331

Two weeks ago I did this with a resin model:

Testors Acryl White Primer
Next day: Testors Acryl Green gloss.
Two days later: Testors Model Master British Racing Green Metallic.
Three days later: Future Acrylic gloss.

And it looks great, no problems at all.
by TER-OR
Thu May 08, 2014 8:41 pm
Forum: Finishing
Topic: Clear sprays over Acrylic
Replies: 7
Views: 3331

http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/vie ... hp?t=60853

There's a whole thread for clear coats.
by TER-OR
Wed Apr 09, 2014 8:40 pm
Forum: Finishing
Topic: How to add depth to large Scale monotone models?
Replies: 9
Views: 4844

Oh, and use different shades of gray - some are blueish, some green. Where it makes sense, panel them off - you can always lightly overcoat with your base again to blend them back.
by TER-OR
Wed Apr 09, 2014 8:30 pm
Forum: Finishing
Topic: Airbrush Cleaners
Replies: 2
Views: 1722

This thread should be in Finishing.
by TER-OR
Wed Apr 09, 2014 8:11 pm
Forum: Finishing
Topic: How to add depth to large Scale monotone models?
Replies: 9
Views: 4844

Save the black ink for the deep details, use Neutral Gray or Payne's Gray for most other paneling etc. - and don't forget if you've got a color other than gray as your base to wash with a darkened base color, not black! Shading is paramount to give depth. You can start dark and work light, or start ...
by TER-OR
Wed Aug 28, 2013 9:37 pm
Forum: Construction
Topic: Gooey-glue gurus needed within ...
Replies: 11
Views: 4022

Polyurethane glue, baby.

But beware of urethane finish and exposure to UV from the sun. It will last a few years, but eventually will peel like a ginger's skin. I've got a set of Adirondack chairs to sand and refinish, and those were never in the full sun.
by TER-OR
Wed Aug 28, 2013 9:34 pm
Forum: Construction
Topic: The gap won't fill!!
Replies: 12
Views: 4056

Another tip I'll share - using something like Mr. Surfacer or another fillable primer type thing. Don't try to sand down to where you only see the filling in the gap. That's too far. Sand down until you have a smooth layer of the fill OVER the gap. The rubberized CA does tend to avoid this problem a...
by TER-OR
Tue Aug 06, 2013 9:28 pm
Forum: Finishing
Topic: Airbrush shopping is such a headache
Replies: 18
Views: 7226

I'll tell you what I use: Badger's Omni 4000 (replaces a siphon-feed 3000). The old Vega Omni line are built well, inexpensive to maintain and very easy to use and clean. I'm thinking of relegating it to metallics since it's a pain to clean the other brushes. Iwata Revolution. Works OK, a real pain ...
by TER-OR
Tue Aug 06, 2013 9:23 pm
Forum: Finishing
Topic: Airbrush Systems
Replies: 3
Views: 1659

http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/vie ... php?t=4204

Airbrush Survey.

And there's another thread right now asking the same question - see that for some cogent replies.
by TER-OR
Tue Aug 06, 2013 9:21 pm
Forum: Finishing
Topic: Airbrush shopping is such a headache
Replies: 18
Views: 7226

The Airbrush Survey here is a good resource for you. No hyperbole or selling - just honest opinions on some standard questions. That's why I initiated it years ago. http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/viewtopic.php?t=4204 Joseph's right - Get a quality brush - at least mid-range - from any of the bi...
by TER-OR
Mon Jul 29, 2013 10:02 pm
Forum: Construction
Topic: Gorilla Glue Experiences?
Replies: 36
Views: 15612

Polyurethane glue is my first choice when woodworking, and it does bond pretty much anything. It's great stuff. Clean up quickly, though. I've used it on models occasionally.

I have found their CA to be of better than average quality, too.
by TER-OR
Fri May 10, 2013 7:38 pm
Forum: Construction
Topic: Fastest Drying Glues:
Replies: 3
Views: 1475

Wug has the best solution. Be careful not to load them with too much epoxy, though, you don't want them to overheat.
by TER-OR
Wed Jan 30, 2013 9:43 pm
Forum: Construction
Topic: Buying Sandpaper?
Replies: 16
Views: 5303

That black wet/dry can be epoxied to sticks, dowels, strips, marble slabs, etc. I still use the hobby shop strips, too. Though I did see a tip to epoxy egg carton styrofoam to a harder surface and sandpaper to make your own.
by TER-OR
Mon Jan 28, 2013 11:32 am
Forum: Finishing
Topic: Must you always add a primer coat before finishing coats?
Replies: 11
Views: 4265

That's why we're here. And remember - practice! Don't make mistakes on your big project - try new techniques with old decals or misprints and a kit you can strip again. If you're using aftermarket decals try emailing the guys, they may have some misprints they can send you. I've got sheets from Wond...
by TER-OR
Sat Jan 19, 2013 6:12 pm
Forum: Finishing
Topic: need to know painting,decaling and weathering steps?
Replies: 6
Views: 1742

That gloss coat protects the paint below - some weathering can be a bit harsh, the panel line (pinwashing) needs gloss so you can easily remove excess. Gloss coat also protects during masking secondary colors etc. as the tape is far less likely to pull up paint with a hard glosscoat.
by TER-OR
Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:56 pm
Forum: Finishing
Topic: Must you always add a primer coat before finishing coats?
Replies: 11
Views: 4265

If it's a good styrene kit which doesn't have a lot of filler, photoetch etc. you don't need primer. Resin I always prime, and I love the Gunze-Sangyo 1000 or 1200 because it's mirror smooth. Another tip you'll pick up looking at the forums is sealing coats before complex masking. I like a light coa...
by TER-OR
Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:47 pm
Forum: Lighting & Electronics
Topic: Clyde "En'til'Zog" Jones has passed away
Replies: 28
Views: 13951

Here's one of the shots I know I have.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ter-or/235 ... 192488450/

Yes, Zog did work on the original Star Trek series making props, at least for the pilots. Some of his work is at the Smithsonian.