Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I have an iwata but i'm looking to buy something a little bigger to paint some of my larger scale models. I've been looking at the Tritium.TS.

John

What putty were you using though.. If it's squadron and you are filling seems likely it will shrink after a few months.

Since you like BSG here is the MK VII I mounted using headphone jacks. I think it was 1/4 and you can get them from Frys or Radio Shack Typically. https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/317578_10150462232324358_793184357_10969863_380535554_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hph...

Well you need to do several passes of light coats. You really should be using an airbrush though. Just do a first pass at angles to get the recesses, just quick pops about 3 or so inches from the part. They call rattle cans Spray Bombs for a reason




John

Thanks guys ill check it out.

Anyone got the hookup on acrylic display bases that could house lighting controls?

Well masking is not an Issue in this case. It's on a engine nozzle and on a very well enginered Bandai Kit. It basically fit's with no glue so all i need to do is seal it once i'm ready and then weather it. I've kept it seperate from the fuselage for painting purposes :D http://www.hlj.com/product/B...

The part rolled off the tape and made a couple marks in the finish. Can this stuff be recoated>?

John

Hmm.

Yeah that's a tough one. Ussually I don't put the gloss coat on until after I am done with all the painting. It could have been that your gloss coat wasn't completely dry. But try Future for sure, it really does give a nice smooth finish.


John

Like what kind of Marks? I use the tamiya paints on all my builds? Are you Brushing or using an AirBrush.

John

Oh and you can use the testors dullcoat once the acrylic dries. Just skip their gloss.

Thou shalt not use anything but "Future Floor Wax" over Tamiya Acrylics.
You just want the plain old Future. No Scents special waxes etc on the label

Tamiya = Acrylic
Future = Acrylic
Result = Happy Paint

You should always let the paint dry days-week before putting the future on.

John

Hmm that's interesting with the glue. I thought it wasn't that they don't stick it's that they weren't soft enough to lay down on a rough paint job. Hence you get air trapped which causes the silver effect.

Your best bet is to use future floor wax and not a gloss coat product. The decals on this kit were a problem for sure. On mine I put several coats light of Future on and then decals, then another coat of Future. Finally a dull coat.

John

It's just the UK brand I think. As long as you buy straight up future wthout any extras it should work just fine.

I bet if you look at a majority of the 1/350 builds posted they all assemble then paint. In this scale it's not that difficult to mask off the windows. For example here is a build that goes over all of it for you. Page 17 even says how to do the window masks http://www.ianlawrencemodels.com/wipplent...

Did you put a Matte or Gloss coat over it already. If so I think you are SOL. Otherwise you could probably use Micro Sol/Set to fix that

I just need it to make a model stand look like a rusted piece of crap. So not overly worried about it ruining anything. We have a large train store close buy I will check it out.

Anyone know where to buy this locally? I didn't see it in my LHS would Michaels sell it?

I used Tamiya Acrylics when I had my Paasche Airbrush. The trick is to get the paint thinned enough to spray. Really my best advice is to find the kit you least care about and use that as a learning experience. Oh and make sure you buy a good respirator most paints atomised are not good for your lun...

Well I did the same thing for my 350 yamato. I used Tamiya Acrylics though. And I did a first pass or two of the base coat. Then did the pen and then went over it. Before http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=79006&id=793184357&saved#!/photo.php?pid=3076603&id=793184357&ref=fbx_album...

Just got a couple general questions on the testors metalizers.

1. I heard somewhere black primer was best to put down first
2. I need to have a couple different colors on the kit is it best to not paint over the metalizer and just tape off the other sections?

John

Eh Maybe if it is really cold where you are. I would guess that 3 days later the paint would be pretty well cured. Could be the brush you are using too thats causing the prolems. Did you prime the kit?

Can you take a photo of what it's turning out like?

John

Use some very very fine sandpaper to help with that. Just go over it very lightly

He's right. That's definately done with a pic/micro controller. I dont think you need anything else other than the Pic

What's the best way to secure the strands inside the model. I'm guessing any of the typical model glues would ruin the strands. Would elmers white work or too week?

Thanks

John

Local Hobby Shop is where I got a set of 12 micro scale bits. I was using .0135 for fiber. The fiber came out of the Fiber Optic Star Destroyer kit, should be the same as DS9. You need to get the hobby dremel and the set of 4 chucks. There is one chuck in that set that will fit the small bits as wel...

So I am working on lighting the 1/72 y-wing cockpit. I bought some LED's that rotate between Red, Green, and Blue color every 4 seconds. What I want to do is delay one of them from startings say 2 seconds. What's the best way to go about it. If it makes any difference to your help. I am also using 1...