Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I picked up a lighting kit for my Anigrand Star Destroyer. It did not come with a power supply. The instructions indicate I need to provide the 12v power supply. I have no idea where to find that. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

double post..

Sorry Redfinger, I missed that. You're right, a solid model won't work for that. No worries....though I am thinking now about just making it a solid piece and forgoing to engine detail all together. I have limited funds and the casting/mold making supplies I have I need to make last, and there is a...

From what I see in the picture , there is no need for the model to be hollow. If you can build a buck for vacuforming, then you can build the basic shape and to heck with vacuforming. If you read through my build thread my intent in vacuum forming the front fairing/body is that I would like it to b...

modelnutz wrote:How big will it be ?
Length/Width ???

A little longer than a 1/24 scale car, and about half as wide

Tankmodeler wrote:

redfinger wrote:@tankmodeler - thanks for the tip but I think vac-forming is going to have to be the route I go.

Ashton

What will you use as a pattern?

I will just make a solid form out of styrene and pink foam, then skin it with bondo. I wont detail it, just getting the shape.

That design looks like a great candidate for vac-forming ! yup, but I dont have access to that equipment. I am strongly considering it, and I might end up putting the project on hold until I can get access to one. @tankmodeler - thanks for the tip but I think vac-forming is going to have to be the ...

I am working on a scratch build project located in this thread; http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/viewtopic.php?t=104936 This is more or less the inspiration picture I am using for the build; https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/hUVG5Iz9LbLTFsyQwdhyHaG5ltE1roUGexhpg3TfKJ4?feat=directlink I was pl...

About the cheapest new hobby lathe you're going to find is a Taig. Sherline lathes are a bit more expensive and very solid machines. I have a Taig and it's flippin' awesome. If you are in a decent-sized city, you may be able to find a second hand hobby lathe for much less than a new one and save th...

break a toothpick and half, use the splintered end, works great.

Ashton

Thanks for all the replies! Sounds like I can't go wrong with the Iwata. Here's the one I saw: http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/993/1405.jpg And thanks, Scanam2006, for the info on discounted ones online. I guess I was just assuming it was a good deal because it was 30% off. After minimal searchi...

Future is a clear floor wax, believe it or not. Its actually Pledge with Future Shine. Dont let the name fool you - its really not wax, but a hard acrylic finish. http://www.floorcareproducts.com/floor-finish/index.asp Hey redfinger, what percentages do you use with vallejo and future? What ratio p...

I am working on a enterprise d model which is my first model for a long time. I am gonna use a airbrush and I have read about various ways of painting the model and plan to paint then decal then dullcoat. My question is i have matt and gloss paints and wondered if it makes any difference with matt ...

I have from time to time, depending on the type of weathering effect I am trying to acheive, knocked down a model w/ 0000 steel wool. I have also found it "smooths" the layers nicely as well. Sometimes w/ all the coats I put on a model during the weatehring process you get high spots. Ashton

Well I did three passes to get the amount of primer that is in the pictures. Too few? Agree with the above but also as an add-on to Redfinger's 3rd... Continuing to spray too much. Use light coats to build up the color otherwise you risk orange-peel because of too much paint. Also, prolonged sprayi...

to answer your question though, yest that is "orange peel" It cn be caused by a few things, being to close to your srface when spraying, if you are too close it does not give the paint/reducer/propelent enoungh time to atomize completley in the air. Now on the flip side if you are too far ...

I'm new to many aspects of modeling. I decided to get serious about it and am diving head first, but I think I jumped the gun on buying a few things. After doing some research I read 30 PSI and lower is best for airbrushing models. I purchased a 40 PSI compressor yesterday. Is that too much? Also, ...

[quote="Johnnycrash"]Please, whatever you do, do NOT do what redfinger has sugested. It's bad bad bad. Warm water is fine, as long as you can keep you hand in it for 30 seconds or so. Anything warmer will cause dramatic, if not deadly, events to unfold in a way your family will NOT find am...

Erm... hand-hot water maybe.... But very hot water could have spectacular, not to say, messy results. But I still think there'll be a problem with the paint adhering to the surface if it is too cold. As long as it is not boiling you should be fine....why not warm the model up slightly.....to take t...

instead of brush priming why not just heat up your primer? Take the spray can and soak it in some very hot water, shake it up, then soak it some more, after about 5 min or so of this, shoot the model quickly, then warm your primer back up again.

Ashton

No it would compress the air bubbles. The bubbles would then reappear when the pressure was released. If you poured your mold, and then pressurized while it cured, any air bubbles would also reappear once the pressure was released, and wreak havoc on your mold and parts. :? You can degass RTV in a ...

I know that you can degass the RTV in a vacuum chamber but what about a pressure pot? Would a cup full of RTV under enough pressure loose it's air bubbles? Just interested if anyone has ever tried it.

Ashton

Verlinden makes a huge assortment of after market diorama bits, photo-etch, resin, all kinds of fun stuff. I have also has some success at train shops, you can make things look like other stuff w/ a little bit of work. But try Verlinden first, google it you will be amazed. And btw if you do fins som...

I know it sounds funny but apparently the stuff works. Anyone here ever used it? Is it a hot glue or a CA type glue? And lastly where in the states can you get it?

Ashton

I have been doing some research and found that some railroad electronics books are really good, they have detailed instructions on lighting(solid and blinkning) and sound!!

Ashton

is there a dvd series or book avilable that talks about lighting a model?

Ashton

USSARCADIA wrote:Like Vader says, grab some Bondo spot putty. That's all I use for most filling needs(MagicSculp for heavy filling/build-up) and its dirt cheap.

I am a body man by trade, never thought of using the spot putty, I have a tube of it out in my garage, I will give that a try.

Ashton

I have used the milliput stuff, tamiya basic putty and a few other things. Each has there specific use. I a looking for a putty that fills quickly and sands easily. I have a macross project I am working on and now that the frame of wat I have is roughed in I need to do a lot of sanding and filling t...

Gluing sheet styrene to metal. I am trying to coat a 1/4in metal rod in sheet styrene. I have tried wpoxy that was "designed" for that application, gorrilla glue and super glue. After a few days of letting it dry I can peel the sheet styrene off like it was never glued on. I am thinkng of ...

I have had really good results w/ alclad just using rustoleum gloss black...seems to work real well.

Ashton