Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

It's just white glue.

The product is crap. I purchased it to create a rusty muffler on a 1/35 Stug a few years back and after following the directions and applying several coats I gave up and created the rust with paint. I would recommend Mig Pigments to create very realistic rust effects. If you have your heart set on R...

Had a chance to use my new scriber from John Vojtech's outfit UMM and it is AWESOME! While repairing my BV-194, I had to putty in a small hole on the belly where the torpedo pylon had been located. Because my traditional scriber is a point, it kept getting caught in the soft putty and screwing up my...

After experimenting with several adhesives I discovered good old wood glue works just fine as does Gorilla Glue.

http://forum.fpkclub.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=39

I was surprised to learn that certain contact cements like goop also eat up the foam.

Search for "hypodermic tubing' on eBay. You'll find a fella who offers an assortment of 50 blunt needles.

My example
Scroll down about 2/3 of the page.

Mark Yungblut wrote:
Or you can wait till NATs and I'll bring you some....

Mark

I can wait. THANKS Mark.

Mark Yungblut wrote:...a large jar of ground ferrous oxide powder.

So where does one get a jar of the stuff?

I purchased Rustall last year. I was working a StuG IV at the time and wanted to created a realistically rusted and burnt looking muffler. I had heard good things about the system and pictures of the weathered models sure looked good to me. I followed the directions but was unable to create a realis...

I like my Iwata Eclipe HP-BCS. Works well at around 15psi and with the .35 needle/nozzel you get a good fine line.

Do what I do...sneak into the laundry room and spray a few coats. We have a window in the room so I open it help alleviate the fumes. I would recommend it for everyday use but once in a while is OK. And if your family says anything tell them what I tell my wife, "What? You don't like the smell?...

Sure can!

Resin is a very forgiving material. It is easily filled, sanded, cut or drilled.

If you mess up and happen to have a little resin laying around - just mix up, a small batch, pour into the hole, sand and *poof* good as new.

Depending on the shape of the part - you might consider making an original out of styrne and casting copies out of resin...that's what I would do.

Castrol Super Clean (Big Purple Jug) is my paint remover of choice. It will remove most paint overnight with no damage to plastic. You may have to use an old toothbrush for the cracks and crevices. It will dissolve any filler putty you may have applied. It is available at most big box retailers and ...

That's good to know.

I had heard that Future had been discontinued and I got a little worried when I went looking and couldn't find any on the shelves...

A dremel with a good cutting blade will do the trick.

They also sell small pipe cutters.

I own 2 Iwatas - very good brushes.

My old Badger Crescendo was nice and I hear SOTARS are excellent.

Plastruct also sells nice hemispheres.

http://www.plastruct.com/

Good idea to have a spare needle or two as well. The tips are very fragile.

Not one cent!

I own both a Badger Crescendo and a Iwata HB-BCS. Both are excellent brushes. I find I get a finer line with the Iwata but I can't rave enough about Badger's customer service. I mailed my busted Badger (my fault) off and and a couple of weeks later received an almost completely rebuilt brush! Very p...

Thanks for the link. I just dipped a windshield and did not blot it enough and now have a bit of a build up at the base...

May not be visable once the part is installed but I was wondering what would remove Future and now I know. Windex.

Future is very thin to start with...I use it straight from the bottle.