Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I've sprayed it onto bare plastic numerous times without problems. If you don't flood it on, it's no different than any other paint. Not saying it won't eat plastic, but if you do things correctly it isn't a problem.

Erin
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The Olfa circle cutter won't work, the circles he wants are too small. The Olfa IS the poo for big circles, though. He definetly wants the Tandy Leather punches. I got mine at Pearl Art Supply, a store that I do believe has a branch in that cluster of humanity you guys call Chicago. I had the same p...

Depends on what color Alclad it is. Chrome will need a black background, and I would assume that black plastic is the same as black primer. As for the other colors, I've sprayed several of them without priming and they look and dried just fine.

Erin
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Got my hydrospan yesterday. No instructions, no MSDS sheet, cans are stamped October 2004. They did send me instructions for Aquaresin and Winterstone, two totaly unrelated and completely different casting mediums though. :roll: So, lemmie get this stuff mixed up and let's see how well it works.... ...

Maybe in medical situations, but not when talking models. All of my patients are model builders. And strippers.

Erin
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Also, when I switched to XP it didn't like the ALPS either. The new drivers for XP suck, and the old ones won't work on XP. I just print stuff off of my wife's machine that has WinME.

Erin
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Go here, http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Alps/ join the group then ask your question. They usually can help with most any ALPS problem.

Erin
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My patients usually advise me to just replace the detail with similar ribbed sheet plastic.

Erin
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You kill me with that big brain of yers, Ter!

Skimmed, screed, scraped, squeegied, smeared, whatever you wanna call it. Smooth it out after an hour or so with a brush.

Erin
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Try the ApoxyPaste for smoothing and skimming if you don't mind spending on it. It's the same exact stuff, but already thinned out. I've used it a lot as of late and it's really great stuff. It will flow if put on too thick, though. It's really good for filling sealed voids in scratchbuilds. I put i...

Expanding foam, the kind used to fill cracks in walls. Experimentation will be required, but that's what the Shadow ship diorama was made from that was at WF a few years ago. Find out who did the dio and ask him. I don't remember who did it, maybe someone here knows? Maybe he's here? I'm going to tr...

I ordered it today and talked to the dude about it a little. He hadn't personally used it but said that everyone who he had talked to who has used it said it's pretty easy to work with. Not sure how long it'll take to get here, but I will definetly be trying it the day after it shows up. I've got se...

I ordered some of the Hydrospan to play with. Wish I'da known they had it at WF, would have bought a gallon kit of it and already been playing with it.

Erin
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Nah, I have about 20 sq feet of the foam Joe brown sent me years ago. Packed away, but I still have it. Couple weeks ago I was sitting down to do a conversion on a Gundam for Sal. Spread the parts out, glued a few assemblies together, put them all in sub groups in individual piles. Phone rang, reach...

Yeah, I know. I did it with clay for a while. I just hate having something with that big of a footprint on the table. I'm gonna find me a Mr. Cement or Revell Germany cement bottle and use those. I think the Tamiya bottles are squah as well. One good thing about spilling a bottle of Ambroid, you get...

Ambroid is what I spill on my table. I rarely get any of it on actual plastic (unless it's laying on the table). I seem to always find a way to knock the brand new bottle over each and every time I buy one. Why would it be so difficult for them to put it in short, fat, square bottles instead of tall...

Me too. My 4lb kit is almost gone. Took 3 years to empty it. I think I'll try a different color next time around....

Erin
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Maybe Limestone hard, but definetly not granite hard. It sands easily enough when set up. Kinda like, like, uh, well epoxy putty! And it's definetly not poisonous. Maybe not good for ya, but it I feel fine and I've had a bunch of it in my mouth (to clarify, I'm talking about AVES APOXYSCULPT!!!) ove...

BUUUURP!

The only drawback is getting it out from between yer teeth.....

Erin
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Yep. You'll do fine, I got faith in ya.

Erin
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Tis cool. Good luck. Beware of spiderwebbing. If you get it, back off the pressure.

erin
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Yeah, it'll spray. Thin it with Mr. thinner or lacquer thinner like any other paint .

Erin
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Dilute some vaseline in naptha (zippo fluid) then brush it on and let it sit until the naptha evaporates, then pour yer rubber. It does tend to dry the rubber out, and SmoothOn frowns on it, but it works. I use Mann's 800 release, great stuff and lasts a good while per can.

Erin
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The gray will look like dust, so don't do it! Take the original colors you used and lighten them with some white, then hit the high spots that would fade out faster in the sun. Go slow, let it sit after one pass and see if it's lookin ok, then proceed to desired effect.

Erin
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It's good to go, it's had plenty of time to dry enough. The clear is the same chemistry anyway.

Do mist coats, don't flood it on. Otherwise, spray at will dude.

Erin
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Just because it says non-toxic on the bottle doesn't mean it won't do you harm. Inhaled acrylics are just as bad or worse for your lungs as enamels or lacquers. Best bet is to go to Harbor Freight and get ya a good respirator mask, then maybe even get a filter for the room. I used a big hepa filter ...

Again, not sure of the brand you're using, but silicone is silicone so I guess it's all the same. No, no cleaning is required after baking. All you're doing is getting out the excess alcohol that's inhibiting the cure of your resin. Set the oven to 125-175, place the mold on a cookie sheet, put it i...

Some silicones need to be post cured to bake out the residual oils and alcohols left behind from the setting up process. It's probably these that are inhibiting the setting of your resin. Don't know about your particular brand of silicone, but SmoothOn products suggest baking the molds at 175 for 1 ...

I will confirm all of what you said Joe, except the term dainty. Michell is dainty, your 6 foot plus red head beauty is not. Amazonian, maybe, but not dainty. Hottie robo babe, yes, dainty, no. Actually, talking to her is quite refreshing as she does have a general knowledge of what she's looking at...

The 250 is an external mix, bottom of the barrel, barely sprays anything POS. Sorry, but it's the truth. It barely qualifies as an airbrush. Humbrol very well may have reboxed them under their brand, I know Tamiya brand brushes are Iwatas, so it's not inconceivable that Humbrol would do the same. My...