Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Haven't tried it but in New Zealand we have an epoxy filled with fine ferrous particles that claims conductivity. I've seen it in a hardware store

Headphone jacks make an ideal way to run current through rotating parts, the jack becomes one end of an axle

Might be too late, but liquid latex works fantastic, easier to remove than glue

I'm a little out of practice but haven't had any problems with getting the detail my self in vacforming. Looking at the small pictures it looks like the sucking might be part of the problem as one hole will make air voids. This is my home made box As for the temperature I wait till the styrene near ...

I'm keen to see how everyone else does it as I'm finding the two part molds quite a hand full and messy. Trying to get off the klean klay around the edges with out creating a gap for the second layer to penetrate is being a nightmare. Also do you all lube the master before adding to the klay? Here's...

Am i correct in assuming that its probably a better idea to wire stuff up in series vs parallel? depends on what it is. Most of my leds are a series of two or three with a resistor in parallel with another or many of the same. Simply put: lots in series will have a low out put of light (due to usin...

You might try pressing your fingers all over the glue side of the Dymo tape before you stck it down. The oil in your fingertips will gradually reduce the "tack" of the adhesive. I will try that, as well as the pant fuzz and making layers like the Lt. suggests, maybe a layer of tamyia mask...

Kylwell wrote:Also let the scriber do the cutting, low pressure. It should take several passes to get a strong line, just remember how many passes to ensure equal depth.

Sounds like you're suggesting patience???

Done the search and no results, I am about to venture into some very fine scribing on a master made of epoxy, styrene and thin layers of tamyia basic putty. I was planning to use the dymo tape like swannies but fear the dymo tape will lift the basic putty. My rulers all seam too chunky too, so rathe...

moved to own post

That explosioni is really awesome. I've read that the kaBooms in Believe are internally lit. Hence the nice glow. I'm gonna pick up a can of foam and try it out tonight. I'll post some pics. I have made about 7 explosions, the first two now look cartooney to me. On the last 5 which are in a model I...

Have you considered EL wire? Here is a link. This, coiled behind it, should give a nice solid glow with some simple difusion. They have a lot of different kits available. http://www.thatscoolwire.com/store/item.asp?Category=168&SubCategoryID=&GroupID=&SKU=WY%2DNH%2DLZ%2D3V that's cool l...

Maybe you could use lightsheet instead? A quick google has reveled it is not cheap. I think I need a way to diffuse the light evenly (and cheaply) Yes, it isn`t cheap, but it looks really cool - I used it for my "Chevron 7... activated" - diorama: http://www.starshipmodeler.org/gallery8/m...

There are ways of achieving this. cheap: frost the inside of the clear parts using clear flat or sandpaper Yes it did a little but as you say I could still see the light spot move the led back from the clear part That can help, if you have the space to do so... Yes, no space in this scale not-so-ch...

Marco Scheloske wrote:Maybe you could use lightsheet instead?

A quick google has reveled it is not cheap. I think I need a way to diffuse the light evenly (and cheaply)

I have reposted here as it might catch more expect attention

Stargate lights

I have casted clear blue parts that I wanted to evenly glow, however it looks like there is simply a LED behind it.

This is the shape I was going for and using my template. http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m283/kiwikenny/Image008.jpg as you can see, considerable filler was needed to make the joins smooth, though that may be down to the inexact lines that were cut as the template was transfered by printing on pa...

If you shorten each of the "slices", you are effectively shortening the height of the dome, while keeping the diameter. That's one of the definitions of an ellipsoid: take a sphere and shorten it in one (or more) directions. If you shorten it in one direction you'll have a "pill"...

That'll give you an ellipsoidal dome (a hemi-ellipsoidal dome actually). For a true spheroidal dome (a section of a sphere) you must cut the lenght of each "slice" (keeping the tip) to the desired size, then attach them by their (bases) making a cone pattern-like "fan". Giving m...

As I always try to build on a budget I present to you guys plan A (draft form) And welcome comments and edits. With a lot of looking and a bit of thinking I have devised this template for the production of paper/styrene domes without the need of any equipment Please take a look at: http://i107.photo...

With thermoforming methods, you can also do straight-up blow molding. get yout styrene sheet between two frames with round holes (diameter of the holes = diameter of the dome), heat it up until if softens and, like vacuforming, but the other way around, blow and inflate the dome out (you'll need th...

You can't make a dome (hemisphere or a part thereof) from a flat sheet. It curves in two directions. The sheet would have to be heat formed or some other moulding process used. Yeah, I was sure I had seen a template like someone would use for a paper model and then with some putty and sanding get a...

For flattish domes, check out clock "crystals" at the office supply store, etc. You'll have to buy the whole clock, but they're cheap. You can also take thin plexiglas/acrylic and put it in a frame like you would for plug molding. Blast it with a heat gun( or prop it up in an oven) and ju...

karim wrote:Not styrene, but how about this:
Pour resin over the balloon until you get a thin, even coat.

Not a bad idea, I thought of a paper mache form of this, and I will keep in mind but I would prefer the styrene for lower cost

Does any one have any tricks to make smooth domes from sheet styrene? Perhaps a template program like the cone maker?

Looking at 30-40cm (12-16inches)

Depending on what you're looking for.

That's the shizzel!

I will check them all out when I finally have time.
I'm after (probably) a badger 360 with good international freight rates[/quote]

Can you all recommend the best source for international airbrush orders? (looking at badger 360)

Found Dixie art supplies which looked great but they want to charge $100 us for postage

What about NOT epoxy?I use Testors clear parts cement & window maker for similar things. Wipe any excess away with a paint brush or cotton bud.

Found a bottle of this at the local supermarket

http://diggersaust.com.au/prodinfo/cloudy.pdf

it is a strong Ammonia solution, and hence I thought it might be better for cleaning, anyone tried it?

TER-OR wrote:Windex is a glass cleaner with ammonia. I'm sure you have a similar product. The ammonia seems to be very good at cutting through acrylics.

cheers, I have found a good strong whiffing window cleaner, just really needed to know for the concentration ratio