Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

That's crazy. Hell of a lot cheaper than buying a compressor.

Keep in mind these paints were designed...first and foremost...with the figure painter in mind. They are meant to be applied in thin layers and built up. The lighter colors (white and yellow) can be especially thin. Using a primer under these paints is pretty much mandatory. Acrylics just don't stic...

Another trick is to squeeze out some of the oil paint on to a piece of cardboard (like the kind shipping boxes are made out of). This will seep the oils out of the paint and does 2 things: 1. It reduces glossiness of the oil paints and 2. Aids in reducing drying time. Use that reduced oil paint to m...

You can use bleach to remove the chrome. It will completely strip it from the plastic leaving on a shiny and very sanitary part left behind. Just immerse the part in the bleach and be amazed as it just disappears before your eyes. As long as this is not a vinyl part...you should be good...it won't a...

If I had the money and business savvy...I'd try to buy the line. The Floquil/Polly Scale line, Pactra, and MM Acryl paints were fantastic. I wish someone would buy the line and continue these paints! Such a shame...but reality of these times. At least we have a plethora of great substitutes out ther...

To answer your question...I've been finding myself leaning more and more towards lacquers these days. The paint is just superior to everything else and it sticks . I especially like the Tamiya rattle cans and soon the bottled lacquers will be available stateside. Toxicity issues and smell aside...wh...

Tamiya also has a cement now for ABS:

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-87137-CEM ... way&sr=8-6

I have some and I have used the Starship Filth on my Bandai 1/144 Falcon. Highly recommend them. The nice thing about these is the pre-thinning which makes it much easier to apply and wipe off excess. I used Turpenoid to thin and had no issues with cracking. I did use a primer (Tamiya) on the plasti...

I love Acryl...some of the best paint I've ever airbrushed and rivals many of the other newer brands out there. The stuff is so thin and covers so well, plus it has a nice satin to eggshell finish. Reminds me of the old Pactra acrylic paints. Color choices are also fantastic and the lighter colors e...

Yes. It's meant to be spread out using a finger or water on a swab. If you do that...it becomes very easy to use and fills small cracks very well. A trick to keep it from drying out is to keep the lid on your bench screw side up and place the tube back into the cap as soon as you've taken what you n...

"It has been about 20 years since I've used and airbrushed them" That is probably your answer right there. Your lucky you even could use a 20 year old bottle of enamel! Get some fresh paint and try again. I am also a big advocate for using the manufacturer's thinners. I know it costs more...

"It has been about 20 years since I've used and airbrushed them" That is probably your answer right there. Your lucky you even could use a 20 year old bottle of enamel! Get some fresh paint and try again. I am also a big advocate for using the manufacturer's thinners. I know it costs more....

If the parts are very stable (no flexing of the seam)...you may want to try Perfect Plastic Putty. It's water based and extremely fine grained. You just put it on and wipe off with your finger. It does not shrink as it dries (that I've noticed)...but I wouldn't use it for large gaps of holes. So far...

Yeah...us model railroaders were quite peeved when Testors bought and killed the Floquil line. Those paints were fantastic. Now it's just their enamels/acrylics and far less colors to choose from

Options are limited since you threw in "easily masked over". Most will pull up with repeated masking. You could try some of the newer metallic acrylics from Vallejo. Good shine and can be masked if you strip some of the adhesive off before masking. Another option are the new wax based meta...

They are acrylic based...so should be fine. Gloss coating might make it easier to manage though, but I have not tried the their brand of paint yet.

As far as the plastic crumbling problem...that should not be an issue with those washes.

Sounds like the paint may be drying too quickly before hitting the model and this is a problem with acrylics. I always use Tamiya's thinner with their paint. There are built in paint retarders that help with the issues you describe, plus there may be some other chemicals that just help the paint to ...

Yes...never paint when it's raining unless you're sure your insolated from the extra humidity. You could try getting a de-humidifier if it's really bad. Humidity is a constant problem where I live, but it again also depends on the type of paint, thinner, and ratios you're using. I would also try to ...

Ah yes...humidity is a factor as well. I've used to use Testor's Acryl Clear Flat...which I had pretty good results with. I've tried Tamiya clear (gloss), but I have never tried their clear flat. I'll have to try it sometime. I stopped using Testor's Dullcoat years ago as it is a lacquer and will at...

Is it an old bottle or batch? Sometimes the clear flats thickens and turns to white over time. You didn't mention how much you are thinning it and how far away you are airbrushing. I always use Tamiya's thinners as they have some extra ingredients specifically for their paints vs. straight rubbing a...

They work better on a matte painted surface and they are subtle. You have to scrub and build up the color. This unfortunately destroys the little applicator they give you, BUT you can buy these applicators by the bag at the beauty supply isles. They are just eyeliner applicators and I had my wife pi...

I don't remember what tack it was as it was many, many years ago. Since then...I just prefer to use tape...for me it's easier to work with. So...I take it you had issues with the higher tack stuff as well? NathanJ: Mr Surfacer 500 is excellent primer. It produces a smoother finish than Tamiya's, but...

Been there...I tried frisket years ago after seeing the "pros" use it and was just as frustrated.

Tamiya Gray Surface Primer. Amazing stuff and more available now after a severe drought due to container re-labeling. If you want that same primer in a larger quantity...the automotive stores carry a brand that is the exact same thing...but the name escapes me at the moment. I would stay clear of th...

Yes you can...but... A better way to go would be to use oil paint and odorless turpentine. The oils have a long working time and aren't subject to the surface tension problems that acrylic washes present. If Tamiya paint is all you have...I would recommend thinning it with their thinner at the very ...

Is the primer your final base color or are you just doing pre-shading before you paint the final color? Since you are using a primer first...spraying glosscote before weathering is not necessary. If the pastel weathering is final...you would want to glosscote it afterward. BUT...DO NOT use Testors G...

I did...I asked here where to get it and kenlilly106 graciously offered help, but it would have been a real pain for him to ship.

I guess you didn't see my post above, but I did get some...thanks to family members.

Well...we could go on and on about things that should be standard...but aren't.

I agree. Just glad I finally have some of this "unobtainium" crap. All I want is to build my railroad!

Thanks to my uncle and cousin I now have what I need. A 2" and 1" 4x8 sheet of this stuff.

They had a difficult time finding it even up North!!! They went to several stores and finally found some in Pennsylvania.

This stuff must not sell well for the big home improvement chains.

Wow...interesting... Home Depot is very lazy as well. When I called them to ask about shipping the thicker stuff from another store, they said it was up to the store manager. Called my store and they said that the product was not in the region and that they couldn't get it (which is BS if you ask me...