Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Bon Ami powder will work and is cheaper than toothpaste.

I've used Simple Green and it has worked beautifully, even through multiple layers of my ham fisted paint and decal work. The Endeavour I gave you was stripped, twice, using Simple Green. It required additional soak time, but it didn't harm the resin. The upside, imo, is that Simple Green is safe to...

I'll pick up the Tamiya tape and toss the Green tape in my general tool box. Thanks for explaining why (thinner) -- nothing helps more than 'why'. The Tamiya tape is good stuff, but I have found that it does not go around, round, complex bends as it is a paper based tape. The 3M is more a "pla...

Once it's good and dry, run some ultra fine wet sanding paper, say 2000 or so, over the surface. Just a pass or two should knock down the ridge between the masking lines. What kind of tape did you use? I ask because I used to paint cars and was instructed to never lay the masking tape first. 3M make...

I have sanded models prior to painting, especially resin, but on occassion, styrene. Pre priming, 600 grit works well, after priming, 600 to 1000 works to smooth out the primer. ymmv

hth

I've got the 1/1400 phaser strips and I'm using them on my Enterprise-E. I need to know if there is a way to bend them to curve around the bottom of the engineering hull with out breaking them. Cheers. Heat them with a blow dryer until they are plyable, then cool them with cold water. They should h...

I WAS a testors only user. This, until converted to the Church of Aves. I've used it on curves. I've made curves, hell, I made an entire small ship from Aves! (I broke it, but that's not the point.) I don't use alcohol though, I use plain old water and a small paint brush to smooooooth it into the a...

You could look into a small space heater. I picked up a 1500btu electric space heater at walmart last year. I used it to add additional heat to the garage. (the garage is under the house, cold, not freezing cold, but too cold to work in ya know?) It works beautifully. It's got a timer, temp setting ...

Check at your local auto parts store. Meguiar's makes a clear platic cleaner and polish that work really well. The come in small 8oz. bottles the polish is in a blue plastic bottle and the cleaner in a white bottle. I usually use a soft cloth to apply and a seperate cloth for removeal. hth best j

Fourthed for the Testors. Besides the strong odor, it works really well.
I have used Krylon Krystal Clear as well, so far so good.

j

Ah, you are correct Locke. I was thinking of the Aves sculpy.
However, working the tube and adding mineral water to the Part A should still work I would think.

j

I wanted to add something else.

Have you tried taking Part A out of its container and smushing it around to soften it? I noticed that after a few weeks on non-use (damn near a sin I know) the top layer will get crusty and a simple sifting of the product softens it too.

hth

j

You are not the first. Although my part A has been around longer than two months, it is starting to dry out. I was at first alarmed at the fact that my Aves, blessed of all modeling fillers may be going bad I had to try something. I wet my hands, mixed the two parts together and all was right with t...

Thanks Kenny! I will give that a try. I have future and white glue along with spare decals and some styrene. Practice make perfect as they say.
Much appreciated.

j

I've used Testors and Krylon with tamiya with no ill effects. Far as your wash goes, the best left to the more skilled here.

fwiw
j

Quick question for the decal masters.. I am having trouble getting the decals to appear as though they are painted on. Odd, the first few models I did came out extremely well with little or no edges noticable. These last few though, the decals seem as though they are very thick. (both aftermarket an...

I used an extremely small amount of putty, applied with a small spatula to limit the spread across the models. Then a small peice of sp to smooth it over. It seemed to work effectively.

j

Are you speaking of orange peel? Or like Mr. B was referencing, paint dust of dirt? Wet sanding, with an extremely fine paper, say, 2000 or finer, very carefully could correct in. It would really depend on how deep the imperfection goes and how thick your paint layers are. I usually sand for a few s...

Like your guess, for sealing the decals and weathering.
Applying a gloss coat first helps the decals from getting the "silvering" effect, the dull coat seals everything from there.

j

Echoing the others, Prep the model before you paint or primer. Wash it, sand it with some fine paper, then prime it. Sand it, prime it, sand it again. The final color should applied light and smooth, built up to the appropriate depth, the wet sand the model with 1000 grit to even it out. You can als...

Alot of the Kronos 1 stuff was also done with photoetch. That's not to say it couldn't be done with styrene, it certainly could. Just some of it is awefully intricate.

Bar, someday I hope to master plastic the way you have. Great stuff that.

j

Have any of you fine folks used their spray cans? I was wondering if they are equivalent to Testors. What about pearls in a rattle can?
Tips and tricks also helpful.



thanks

j

Depending on how thick (or thin) you applied the paint, you could try a 1000 or 2000 grit paper to work the orange peel out of the surface. I've experienced the same thing you have, usually with me it's rushing and putting on too much paint too fast. Anyway, sanding it down with a fine paper should ...

You can get it at aftermarket automotive stores too, and IIRC Lowes and Home Depot. Yes, I mean the shiney metal foil adhesive backed tape.

j

Umi_Ryuzuki wrote:I spray the model with primer, then sand with a long flat sanding block.
The low spots will hold paint, the rest of the primer is sanded away.

Much simplier technique. I use that with autobody work, I have no idea with I tried to come up with something more complicated.

Perfect Umi.

j

Would it be possible to make a negative template of the shape you working with?
Place the template on the model and move it along the peice and when you get to a low spot, it should be seen easily.
I would think maybe. I guess the application would depend on how complex the shape is.

j

I eyeball the 50/50 mix but the big trick is mixing it well and thoughly. It's not good enough to look well mixed (we've found), mashing and folding for about 5 minutes makes sure it well mixed. Words to live by. Also a lesson learned the hard way. :( (well, not hard actually, I didn't mix it thoro...

jsnmech, Are you adding new details to each side of the form and need pointers on getting them symmetrical so it doesn't look lop-sided, or are you blending new details into the existing form and want to know the best material to achieve a smooth transition? Little bit of both. For bits and peices ...

Hello gents, I am working on a couple kitbashes. They are the first and second attempts at using various products to contour the added features into the main body of the subjects. Being inexperienced at this, I would like some pointers, techniques etc. to acheive a semetrical look as I want them to ...

I just completed two models with PNT decals for the Akira and Steamrunner. I didn't coat them with anything and I used Micro sol on them. No problems, no wrinkles, no tears at all. In fact, they are some of the sturdier decals I have used. ( I should add, I have the touch of a blacksmith :oops: ) j