Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Yup. You were right. 9v batteries only generate 300 mA. I hooked up a power source rated at 600mA and everything is working perfectly now.

And there was no modifying or re-modifying of anything. I was in the testing stage getting the electronics worked out.

Thanks.

Good point. So I should calculate (or re-calculate) the amperage I need and use an appropriate power source?

I'm running everything on a 9v battery for now (testing). I'll be using a wall wart once assembled.

Forgot to mention, I'm running everything off of 9V. Would using a bus bar to separate the circuits help?

So I'm lighting up a Nebula Class model (conversion kit from DLM). I'm using a variety of different LEDs including the 360 degree variety. The idea for lighting the blue grills of the warp engines was to use LED strips from Modelers Brand. When I light the strips separately, they're fine. But when I...

I would be very careful of using the Tamiya clear coat. I've had it bubble my paint before. It is extremely "hot" stuff. It might be okay over acrylic but not sure I'd chance it. I'd stay with water based clear coats or Future.

Hey Don, it was your basic simple flasher board...with one blinky in the saucer and one on each end of the nacelles. I think it has an old 555 chip. But I ordered it a while back(it takes me a loooong time to do a build up) so I don't recall and it's sealed up in the hull now. My lighting strategies...

I'm actually finishing up an Excelsior right now with lighting. Instead of using 2 blue LEDs for the deflector and shuttlebay, I used one 5mm 360 degree LED with a blue lighting gel cut to shape(s). It worked out fairly well. The only circuit board I used was a DLM Flasher. You might be over thinkin...

Yeah, as long as they're 4" or 6" for that matter, you can run them off one inverter...you have to run them in an series circuit though.