Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Alclad's ti gold & pale gold won't come out as a vibrant polished gold. They're pretty much the shade you see in the pigment on the bottom. But much better than lets say, tamiya Gold leaf? will i be able to buff the titanium gold? thanks! Oh hell yes. Tamiya's gold is horrid, brassy looking stu...

Alclad's ti gold & pale gold won't come out as a vibrant polished gold. They're pretty much the shade you see in the pigment on the bottom. But much better than lets say, tamiya Gold leaf? will i be able to buff the titanium gold? will clear yellow over chrome alclad come out as shiny gold?? I ...

hi have any of you tried the titanium gold ALC-118 by alclad? is it shiny enough to do a kind of chrome gold? i know they have a pale gold..but it might not have the shine i'm looking for.. thanks!

Luis

hi have any of you tried the titanium gold ALC-118 by alclad? is it shiny enough to do a kind of chrome gold? i know they have a pale gold..but it might not have the shine i'm looking for.. thanks!

Luis

thanks for the great advice guys! now i know better!!

Thanks for the tip guys! btw, how do i take care of all my other regular decals? how do i store them or keep them? do i keep them on a clear plastic floder? place paper in between them? thanks again for any advice!

Luis

anyone have advice on how to take care of decals? i have some kits that are old like 25 years +! i'm just concerned that the decals might go brittle or something.. how can i make sure they last?

thanks for the help!
Luis

noted! thanks!

thanks for the advice kev, and thanks again ter-or for the quick reply! wish me luck on this endeavor of mine!

You can apply a clear coat, and a gloss coat won't reduce the shine, but it will change the sheen. There are a few options for panel line washing on BMF. Transparent watercolors might be your best option, and you won't need the clear coat. The pigment will not stick to the smooth surface, and a sli...

when i apply bare metal foil to a surface with recessed panel lines, can i place a clear top coat over it? will it lose its shine? if so how do i do a wash?
thanks! im planning to do a 1:6 kaiyodo C3P0with Gold BMF.

thanks for the help! appreciate it!

does anyone have the booklet on how to use BMF? or does anyone have a pdf file for it? thanks for the help!

whats the difference between the two? i know they are both liquid masking agents but just want to know what the uses of each one are? thanks!

plus you can mix and match Tamiya and Gunze Acrylics. use Tamiya thinner on both too. it works well

Gunze Acrylics are A1 in quality, i use a combination of tamiya and Gunze a lot. i'd recommend it.

Try light sanding it first,prime, then color. it won't matter if you use enamel or acrylic. worked for me. but i personally use acrylics. Good luck

Try this website by a great modeler Scott Craig:

http://www.craigcentral.com/models/decals.asp

For my own preference, i use Gunze-Sangyo Mr.Mark Softer. i find it easier to use than Micro-Set, but this is just me, To each is his own. Good luck and happy modeling!

just go for something safer like Easy-off or Engine Degreaser like Castrol Super clean. you'll get a lot more sleep

Gunze Sangyo Flat-Matt Top coat gives a flat,non-shine finish. Regular clear finishes are shiny. There are finishes like the Satin finish that is neither too flat or too shiny.Hope this helps! Happy modeling

oops,that IS the Liquid rubber stuff. Jonas is right,just go for the Mr.Mark Softer. i use it exclusively. i don't use the Mark Setter coz it is too strong. the equivalents are Mark Setter:Micro Sol,then Mark Softer:Micro Set. When using Mr.Mark softer i first use "Just water" to apply the...

try using it with a bit of water.it does better soot marks when the applicator is damp. plus it doesn't rub off as easy like pastels.

try shaking it for about a minute.. then dip half the spray can in "warm" water. this always helps keep the temp at a stable level..

Kinda wondering too. I found Tamiya's flat base, added to Future, needed to be a LOT more flat base to Future than recommended.Something like 1:1 to get a satin finish. just keep using the 4:1 or 3:1 Future to Tamiya flatbase ratio, but don't spray it like future without flatbase... just use short ...

thin it with future. use 4 parts future to 1 part flat base. no need to thin just mix it well.spray in short bursts to avoid pooling. i use this technique all the time and it works like a charm!

thanks for the feedback!

does setting solution correct silvering? i just have Mr.mark softer.. and if i do develop some silvering, will a coat of future correct it? thanks

i am currently on a build.. i have done the priming and base painting.. but during the process, i didn't like the base color that i used(call me stupid for not testing it first, the color looked good on a test subject but i didnt like it on my model) anyway, i didnt want to re-paint the whole thing ...

Thanks for the info Kylwell :) but i asked the same question in another forum and ,wel one guy said it doesn't work(he said the paint comes on too thick..) have you done this technique for a long time? i mean you can mix tamiya acrylics with GSI acrylics to get a custom color right? Then i guess thi...

i know it's a stupid question but has anyone had success using Tamiya acrylic thinner together with Gunze-Sangyo Acrylic paints? the reason i ask this is when i bought some GSI paints the store owner told me to use "just water" to thin the GSI paint..