Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I've used Future successfully in the past for decal placement, overall finish and clear parts. However, after reading through this entire topic, I do have a question about using Future on large clear parts that I hope someone can help me with. Generally, in order to make a clear plastic part look mo...

Does Model Master not make a British racing green? I have Model Master colour sheets posted up on my bulletin board in my hobby room. After reading your post I had to take them down and look at the opposite side: Model Master Car Colours Chart: B-2716/S-2916 British Green Metallic is probably the c...

Has anyone tried making a specific colour from Model Master paints? I have a model of a Jaguar E-Type and I want to paint it British Racing Green. Other than having a local automotive paint shop make me up a small batch, how feasible is it to mix up my own batch using Model Master?

I need some clarification on how to use automotive paints on a plastic model. I seem to recall that automotive paint is designed to adhere to the metal surface of automobiles, and as such, is not designed for plastic. In fact, automotive paint will actually eat away the plastic. In order to successf...

I've only used it once, so I don't have enough experience to offer any solution. Prior to using it though, I did ask around for some advice and there were a few important points that were passed on to me: - make sure the paint surface is clean - make sure you have a good primer coat laid down first ...

If I'm applying the same colour, and I know I'm going to need more than one coat of paint, I will generally apply two or three thin layers and hour or two apart.

If I switch to another colour, I will wait at least 24 hours before I even start to mask over the first colour.

I've often seen on aircraft models where the panel lines have been carefully drawn in with a fine-tipped pencil. I'm finishing up a 1/288 scale NASA 747 transporter and shuttle, and I want to 'show' the shuttle bay doors with pencil lines. When is the best time to do this? Before or after the final ...

I just finished painting the early version of NASA's 747 shuttle transporter with Alclad II Aluminum metallic paint. With the exception of the tail section and a red, white and blue stripe around the plane, the early version of this 747 is almost entirely unpainted aluminum. I would like to polish t...

I've always used Easy-off oven cleaner. It works really well. Just spray it on and let it sit for a while. Then use a fine tooth brush and water and the paint will come right off. Make sure you wear rubber gloves though, Easy-off can burn your hands. Pete :smoke: Although I've yet to try it, I've b...

I've used the yellow Tamiya modelers masking tape for years and have been very pleased with the results: - it's thin enough to "see through" when masking over multiple colours and a colour reference is needed for masking placement - it's not too thick so its easy to work with - it cuts ver...

Not sure if this has been asked before. I generally use Tamiya masking tape for painting due to its fairly strong adhesive qualities that will not allow paint seepage, yet won't peel paint when it's removed. However, the largest width I've ever seen it in is about 16mm. For larger masking jobs, I've...

I'm thinking it is paint incompatibility, as sanding over the shuttle showed that most of the "dried mud" look was where most of the balck spray-can overspray was located.

It's the Academy kit FA007-350 (1640) Scale 1/288

Ran into an airbrush painting problem I've never encountered before. Working on a NASA 747 shuttle transporter and shuttle. Painted both models with Testor Model Master Light Ghost Grey at the same time today. Both had an initial "primer" of a dullcoat, Testor Model Master Light Grey, but ...