Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Yeah, that's probably what I'll have to do. Maybe make some sort of "hood" to go on it.

I'll see if I can get a pic up tomorrow.

Chris

So, this last weekend I built a homemade paint booth out of a rubbermaid tub and a bathroom fan. It works fantastic, but it's pulling lots of small hairs and dust mites onto the finish. I'm in the basement, and I do have dogs, so there's a lot of stuff in the air-even more than I thought. So, does a...

I have one week til CoMMiESfest and I am behind. I am using Bondo Glazing Putty to fill gaps, but it's gotten a bit dry in the tube, to the point where I'm having trouble feathering it out for some reason. Is there a thinner for this that won't attack acrylic or styrene? OR, can you recommend anothe...

Well, good news and bad news. Bad news is the auto defroster repair kit didn't work. BUT, since I had a spare flashlight anyway from which I could rob another set of LED's if I needed to, I fired up the soldering iron after finding my fine tip for it. Soldered on the wires and it worked like a charm...

Thanks Mike! I stopped at one parts store and found the one kit as mentioned above ^^^. I'm experimenting with it right now, and I may drop by some other stores to see what they have. I'm gonna order some of that wire glue too, in case the defroster repair stuff doesn't pan out. If anybody else has ...

Yeah, I saw that stuff. Reviews looked iffy on it, so I wasn't sure. Then again, it is pretty cheap, so maybe worth a try. I picked up one of those rear defroster grid repair kits from the auto place today. Tried it out on a scrap circuit board. Results are pending. We'll see I guess. Thanks for the...

I am bashing an LED flashlight into some lighting for a project. I need to connect some wires to an existing solder joint on a circuit board. Can anyone recommend a cold solder or conductive epoxy, or other means by which I may do this? Can't hot solder it-too close to other components. Thanks! Chris

I tell you what, if you got skills, you got 'em, cuz I sure don't. I have been just struggling with a scratchbuild project I took on as part of a diorama I'm building. It's a classic flying saucer style UFO, and I wanted to light it. So I fabbed up some styrene lightboxes, had some acrylic domed dis...

Well, looks like I"m gonna go with a blue tinted acrylic cylinder and mount the LED's at the top end. I did some experimenting with this and it puts off a pretty good glow of light at the bottom, even without using a mirror or any amplification device, so the "abductee" figure will be...

Here’s what I need: In a cylinder about 1 ½ “ in diameter, and about 1” tall, I need to create a light that is bright enough to shine through about a foot of colored acrylic rod to create a beam effect. I was thinking an LED penlight, modified to fit. OR How ‘bout a green laser pointer, 15-35mw, mou...

Yep, did some reading up on Alclad, and that looks like the way I'm gonna go. That and those weathering powders.

Thanks again,all!

Chris

Wow, didn't realize Tamiya had expanded their lineup on those weathering kits. I might try those out. That looks intriguing.

I got a spare piece of plastic to do some test runs on also, so we'll see how it goes the next few weeks.

Thanks, guys!

Chris

Hey all, Working on a scratchbuilt classic UFO type project, and want to create a metallic finish to it that has a burnt or superheated look to it. I was thinking of overall silvery, with maybe some coppery, bronzed, or brass tones blended in to it to give it a “heated weathered” look, if you will. ...

It's not that they are a major problem, it's that they are a wear item. The paint going through the brush wears down the needle/nozzle, and it will eventually need to be replaced. They are generally inexpensive. Metallics seem to wear them down a bit faster, it's probably a little more abrasive pai...

I had pretty good luck with using sandpaper very gently to get a chipped effect after I had applied them to the model.

Just like the title says-are the kit's decals any good? I've heard PL tends to make theirs a little thick, and I did have a little trouble with the 1701 kit of the same scale. Has anyone done this kit and did you have any problems with the decals? Thanks for any help you could send my way. Chris

Ahhhh......so when I take the blade out of my X-acto knife and insert a small drill bit (the two-slot knife handle, with the slots making an X ) and tighten it down, I'm basically making a poor-man's pin vise, then, no? I think my next modeling purchase will be a tool binge. Thanks, guys, Chris

I've heard this term several times and I assume it's some kind of very useful tool, but so far I've been able to glean nothing as to what it really IS. Sooo....what IS a pin vise? What is it useful for? How much are they? Thanks! Chris P.S. It suddenly occurred to me this may need to go in "Con...

The frustrating thing for me is that when I hand paint canopies, or anything else for that matter, the paint always goes on unevenly, where you can see the brush strokes. It also takes many coats to finally get a solid color, as opposed to still being able to see the base plastic color. I've always ...

Woozle: Yeah, I used to hand brush all my canopy frames....now that I've tried this trick, I can airbrush with much better result. My handbrushed canopies always looked like wet dog, if ya know what I mean. That was the point I was trying to make. Sorry. Chris

Yeah, just mask the whole canopy in the foil, cut it away from the frame part that you need to paint, then airbrush. Or even rattle-can it. I've been able to then lift away the foil with my X-acto blade...so I didn't have any problems like Timescape did, but I could see how his tape trick can work b...

Wow! Tonite I tried a tip I picked up here on SSM and masked off an airplane cockpit canopy with Bare Metal Foil to paint. I was extremely impressed with the ease of the application and the result. I just improved my modeling skills ten-fold, I think. Very nice! Just wanted to share this with you al...

Funny you should mention this. I used Krylon on my RoG 1/72 U-boat, and had the same problem. Maybe it's something in those paints?
I started ordering paint online after that. Decided to stick with purpose built modeling paint.


Dirk

Hey guys, just an update, but WOW-

I threw another coat of Future on it, and the problem disappeared! That Future never ceases to amaze me. Awesome.
Thanks for the tips-definitely helpful.

Dirk

I was doing some camoflage on a model last week. I put my first coat, by brush, of MM Gunship Gray over a basecoat of some WalMart special light gray gloss. After it sat a week, I gave it a coat of Future. Then after another three days or so, I did a second coat of gunship gray to make up for the th...

Hey Irish,

I forgot to welcome you to the boards too. So welcome! Nice to see another Irishman floating about.
Let us know what works for you.

Dirk

I think I've heard Easy Off makes a great remover, although I could be wrong. Spray on, let soak, scrub off with a toothbrush or whatever. Do some reading around on the forums, and also check out the technical section where the tips are. I wonder if you didn't let the paint cure long enough and that...

Would you guys believe I've lived in CO all my life and never been to Caboose Hobbies? There must be some sort of travesty in that. :oops: Chris

Yeah, I might run down there, Badwrench. I'll be down there this Saturday anyway, so I guess it wouldn't hurt to stop by. Various internet searches turned up this and that, which I may go with if I have to, but not much option in O scale, or 1/48. Philip, I'll PM you in a bit. Chris

Anybody know a good source for these? I thought of O-scale railroad accessories, but alas, LHS had nada.

Chris