Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

On mine, I just poked a hole in the cap and left them in. No harm that I could see from leaving them in.

Or, just use the 5 minute epoxy to hold the piece together and drill from the outside into both pieces (I usually drill it on an angle). I will also use a threaded rod/bolt for it's holding power.

There are so many ways of doing this.

Thanks Red Comet for the post!

Ok, just going over my notes from the class at WF and I am not clear about making flat future. What I have is a bottle of tamiya flat base (large) and I fill it with 91% isopropyl alcohol and then mix it and do a 60/40 mix with future. So, I am guessing that the 40% is the future? But, do I fill the...

Great to hear.... so either regular lacquer thinner or mineral spirits and I'm good to go!

Thanks all!

My questions is this.... what I am talking about is the bottle stuff. According to the bottle, you need to use Testors 1159 lacquer to thin this stuff so that you can AB it.

My question is this... seeing that it is lacquer based.... couldn't I still use regular lacquer thinner to thin it for AB?

Whom ever tries this, please post.

Would like to see if you feel the same as I do.

Thanks for the info.... not cheap I see, but good to know what I am now looking for.

Not going for the wash... and yes.... the kit (D7) has been sealed with dull coat.

Was looking to dirty it up a bit.... and was looking for the best way to apply the pastels.

Now, I have the Duplicolor primer (which is pricey), Krylon primer (which I have mix reviews... but mostly not a favorite) but I just found this primer this weekend and love it! It is called Brite Touch General Purpose Primer. It is made by Duplicolor and it cost me $2.50 for a can! I could not beli...

What is the best way to apply pastels?

Q Tips.... foam brush.... paint brush?

Ter-or wrote

I've also sanded when I've had grainy paint issues

That is my issue.

Any specific brand?

Sounds like a plan. Looking at it now.... doesn't look so bad, but I would still like to smooth the final coat out. This kit (PL D7) has been the kit from hell. :evil: Biggest problem has been that the seam along the neck keeps showing up thru the bondo. I think that I have finally got it taken care...

Yeah, that is what I was thinking was the problem. #-o Any suggestions on a fix? Thinking of wet sanding it with either 1200 or just a tee shirt and then see what happens. A friend of mine suggests that the gloss clear may just level it all out. :-k Funny thing is... the dark color is the problem ch...

Never seem to have this problem before. Using HP CR to shoot Tamiya at 20 - 22 psi at a distance of 8 -10" from the kit. Humidity is around 40%. Paint is thinned with their thinner. In some spots, it looks like it is lightly pebbled. Any ideas as to what is causing this? I'm hoping that I can l...

Painting with Tamiya. I think what I got is maybe some fast drying paint hitting the kit? :[ I'm not more than a 8" from the kit, shotting at around 19 psi, but something funky happened. I just lightly sanded it with 1200, wiped it down and gave it another shot of base color. Best bet is to let...

As the title states, should you wet sand (800 or finer) your paint job?

I'm working on the 1/1000 D7 and was thinking if I should just lightly wet sand the paint job (once I have given it a day to dry).

What do you all think?

Anyone ever try Winsor and NEwton acrylic paints for washes?

I do and have no problem with them. Easy to use and easy to correct. Great pigment!

Yeah, it is the old lacquer paint.

Thanks to all for the suggestions.

Did look at it first.

Failed to notice my type of paint being referenced, which is why I stated the paint on my kit.

Have used EO in the past on acrylic... but I guess that I will use it also on this kit.

I have an old AMT D7 that I would like to strip.

The paint used was Floquil RR paint (painted the kit 20 plus years ago).

Recommendations as to what to strip it with?

I'm currently under the impression that epoxie will not harm FO.

Ah... my understanding is that the CA crazes the FO... makes it brittle and then the FO breaks down and... poof!

I was under the understanding that CA would damage FO?

Send that one to FSM for the $25.

Still waiting for my $25 bucks!

jwrjr wrote

Check out the battle damage in the "Starship Exeter" movie (internet only). The lighting is my creation.

And if I recall correctly... I too have purchased such a lighting kit from you!

I really do like the idea of a 'damage' lighting unit to give the flickering fire effect from inside a broken hull- I have seen some custome effects like that and think it would be great to be able to do soomething off the shelf.

Gotta go with that.... the rest has been done to death.

I think Photoguy is correct on what choices are.

I'm in the same boat and may just go that way.

But is there a site that you can down load the fonts used to make decals for the 1/1000 scalePL ships?

Giving me good info to get me back to building the conversion.

Thanks!

Thanks

It looks like you used aves or something similar to attach it to the engineering section.

Funny thing is... I really don't recognize either type of plugs you used.

Any more info on that?