Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

If the object your casting has several distinct sides, you could always pour in some resin, lay it on a side, let that cure and then repeat for each side. This will allow you to cast it hollow and still contol the thickness to some extent.

Is this the method the big resin companies (True Details for example) use? I actually had no idea casting was this involved. All this time I thought it was just simply pour and wait for it to harden. You certainly can "just pour and wait for it to harden". But you always run the risk of a...

I have a vacuum "desiccator" (chamber) from Scienceware: http://www.bestlabdeals.com/Vacuum_Desiccators_s/457.htm One just went on eBay for under $10: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7613459432&category=26237&fkxs=1 Get one of these, a venturi pump, and a com...

I was wrong. Delta are made in California and the Apple Barrel paints are made somewhere down south. Georgia, to be specific; by Plaid Enterprises. The co. I work for! :wink: Cool! Have you tried airbrushing them after mixing colors? Oh, I've never actually used the stuff...! :lol: Not to bite the ...

Thanks, I was just wondering this. But I'm a bachelor and now have to withstand the funny looks at the store when I go buy a pair of pantyhose. :P Might as well pick up some clear nail polish while you're there, and some emory boards. As long as they're going to look at you funny, blow them a kiss ...

Lt. Z0mBe wrote:I was wrong. Delta are made in California and the Apple Barrel paints are made somewhere down south.

Georgia, to be specific; by Plaid Enterprises. The co. I work for!

Venturi pumps are the way to go. You don't have the expense of a dedicated vacuum pump, but all the benefits. Just hook up your compressor airline and away you go! Yeah, I have a venturi pump, too (though not this one) and it works terrific. Just be sure the container you're de-airing your rubber i...

What's a "tac rag" and where do I get one?

Jonas Calhoun wrote:But my wife gets mad at me when she puts them on and they have different colors running through them...

Thanks, I was just wondering this. But I'm a bachelor and now have to withstand the funny looks at the store when I go buy a pair of pantyhose.

An update, I took the test minis out of the simple green after about 3 days and in about 10 minutes had removed most of the paint off of them both with an old toothbrush. I've chucked them back in to get to the paint left in the recessed areas but it looks like this will be the way to go. Yep, I've...

Just because it says non-toxic on the bottle doesn't mean it won't do you harm. Inhaled acrylics are just as bad or worse for your lungs as enamels or lacquers. Absolutely! Even it's completely non-toxic, you're still spraying (basically) a liquid plastic/vinyl substance that you will inhale. At le...

I have never done this myself, but several craft books have recommended sealing plaster with shellac. It can be thinned down as much as you want... I've done this, it works fantasticly! It's not so much a barrier coat though, as much as something you do to eliminate the porousness of the plaster (o...

Holy smokes, thanks for posting that link. The best sculpting article I've ever seen. Now all I need is (a lot) more talent...!

As macfrank posted below in the "Model Master Acrylics - thinning and mud" thread below: MM Acryl can be safely thinned with denatured alcohol - this is not Isopropyl alcohol. It's rather Ethanol with some extra special crap in it to make it undrinkable. Works great with both Tamiya & ...

You will need to have a non-common layer (to do an oil wash over an enamel base). For example, if you're using enamels, seal them with lacquer or acrylic. Otherwise, if you wash with oils - cut in paint thinner or turps, you will remove base coat or damage it. Well, you were right! I let the enamel...

^ ^ Hmmmmm, I was afraid of that. Thing is, I don't want to destroy the metallic-ness of the enamel with a clear coat. I guess I could do a laquer wash, huh? How 'bout an acrylic wash? The thing about the latter is I really want it to be durable, again without having to seal it. Thanks for the feedb...

Here's a question: can I do an oil wash over an enamel base (Model Master "Bright Brass" enamel to be specific)?

I'm gonna' let the base dry for a week or so to make sure it's good and cured (and even then I know I gotta' be careful with the oil wash).