Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I have similar material I bought well over 10 years ago. Some has been in-use with fabric mounted, in an enclosed space which has seen plenty of thermal cycles and changes in humidity. Still pretty true, even larger pieces up to a few feet long. Leftovers (some a few feet square, some strips a few f...

If you're looking for really tiny, guitar and bass guitar strings can look convincing after painting (or not painting, for a metallic effect)

I haven't used this stuff in ages, so I can't speak for the current product, but the old stuff used methylene chloride as an active ingredient.

That's also used as plastic cement... red flag!

Potent carcinogen too.

It's the nature of the pigment powder itself.

You can try neutralizing the yellow by adding a little blue and see how it looks.

Even on components with round leads, I found it useful to wire wrap to the lead and follow-up with a light touch of solder. Holds everything in place and I'd have to wrap the lead anyway prior to soldering!

If you smear the blade of your putty applicators with Spam the putty doesn't stick to the tool. It's funny, I just dug out a (verrrry) old tube of Squadron white this morning! Just to re-visit the stuff and see if I still hate it. I just prefer catalyzed materials. And I don't mean Bondo! By the way...

Some years back, I found a rotating Christmas tree stand on clearance. I don't recall if it was a continuos 360 degree rotation or a back and forth partial rotation. It could hold a pretty heavy tree, and the base was a partial sphere which would lend itself to painting as a planet. It had integrate...

I think silver is the way to go for sheer blocking power, since the pigment is pretty much metallic solids. If it's a dense enough paint (ie lots of solids versus clear carrier) you should be good to go. I can't recommend any specific brand offhand (been a while) but it's easy enough to do test shoo...

Oh, stop that! Bygones. Life's too short to grind axes, hold grudges, whatever... Let's not sweat the small stuff!

Craft stores have a two-part "foaming" material. Hardware stores have canned foam sealants like Great Stuff et al.

Sorry, no. Wish I could say it's ours... They cheaped out and dressed up some off-the-shelf mini lightboxes (ie.... things for viewing slides and transparencies) to use as Starfleet PADDS. If you own a Cabin lightbox, well... there goes the illusion! There's a prop site or two discussing conversions.

I still have a limited supply of white LightSheet and various LightDrive power modules. Small orders shouldn't be an issue for the time being.

Contact me if you have specific sizes in mind.

Best regards,

Mike Emery
LightSheet Systems

If you don't mind killing a whole can, how about inverting the can as if to clear the nozzle? The pickup tube will be above the surface of the paint contents, up in just propellant gas.) Hold the button until all pressure is released (maybe even warm the can a little to make sure it's good and "...

(dleted. Redundant. why doesn't this thing update threads properly???)

Then again, you could laser print on compatible high-temp acetate, but then you need to be careful while spraying to keep it flush against the model somehow. This kit is big enough where you might be able to make it work without applying some kind of adhesive to the film.

There's a tough one. Can't laser print. Probably can't inkjet print (even if it sticks, any ink residue could get carried into the paint if you're using acrylics.) I did it the good ol' fashioned way I printed the patterns on paper, layed the frisket over the paper, and just followed the lines. Peel...

For a light-duty marble or granite work surface, just hit the flooring department at Home Depot or Lowes!!!!!

Still looking for a good-sized unglazed quarry tile (terra cotta or equivalent) for use as a pizza stone, though!!!