Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Looks like that's probably what I need to look into, 'cause knowing me, as soon as I start this, I'll have to officially notice that a lot of the other sizes of Gyro Caps--still on the sprues--are starting to rot from sheer age . *sigh* "Modeling is fun." I keep telling myself that. Many t...

Da-yum. Glad I found this thread (however long it took me to do so). 17x11 decal sheets. *sigh* Might not have much use for 'em, but for some of my extra-long ships, making a ship-length decal could really be sweet. One guy makes ship-length decals for the Estes Interceptor; now I know how he does i...

I think this might be where I could ask this question; thread owner, if it's not, feel free to dump it wherever it might be more appropriate. I know about using the rubber to make a mold for casting resin parts; need to get back to doing that. But I had a thought the other day, while working on an o...

Thanks to both of you; I dismantled the airbrush for which I have a bottle and let the pieces (including the airbrush ) soak in hot water. Still warm by the time I got back from Church, but a test (after a scrub with a toothbrush) showed that it was actually working again. There hadn't been much to ...

If anyone can suggest a fix for this, I'd appreciate it. I've got three airbrushes (one of which I can't find; it's an actual mostly-metal Badger something or other). The two are inexpensive ones. One is single-action; the (or a ) bottle appears to screw into a permanent holder in the front of the t...

To all: I'd known (sort of vaguely) that different types of paints will cure and harden at different rates. Considering that for this model I was putting a different color/coat on every four or five days, I think they were hardening pretty well (the base coat is sitll repelling pretty much everythin...

To all my fellow Tidewateritianoids: Eastern Burlap & Trading Co. 834 W. 25th Street Norfolk, VA 23517 (757) 622-5914 (I hope I don't get in trouble for putting that there. On the other hand, we mention Denbigh Hobby and HobbyTown all the time.) They carry all the Smooth-On stuff, and when me an...

Woo-hoo, I guess. I had the Alumilite Honkin' Big Starter Kit--the one with lots of resin, but barely enough mold silicone to make a fist-sized mold? Yeah, that one. Had some greeblies that are no longer manufactured, and had a need for some for some current models (may've missed the Seeds contest, ...

Thanks, Ziz. I went there to look. Interestingly enough, although their website appears to be wholly different from Smooth-On, both have the same base setup for their buttons, and right now both are having exactly the same DB access errors in serving up information on the rubbers they sell! *bwah-ha...

Dang. First mold-and-cast experiment, and it's already gone south. On a FRIDAY NIGHT, too. Dang. I have the Alumilite Great Honkin' Big Beginner Kit, which I thought would be enough for a small mold. Literally, all I had was eight very small rocket nozzles (various sizes, 1/72 I think) from an old W...

*sigh* That's kind of what I was afraid of. Oh, well. I found the Alumilite tutorial (still, not video) of a two-part squish mold, which looks like the best solution to my need. Shall likely wind up trying that today (assuming I can find enough legos around the house to wall the stuff in). On the ot...

Hey all I found one of my sprues of Wave Option System parts (specifically, the U-Vernier Round L1, OP-176 ), and realized that one of the verniers thereon was absolutely perfect for turning the kinda-useless thrusters of the Apollo 27 into really nice gravitic units. Unfortunately, there are only t...

Karim I liked it, and I thought it well-designed for a completely airless battlefield. (The space opera nut in me immediately wondered about the fate of one sent spiraling into an atmosphere, but that's neither here nor there.) I laughed (with delight, not derision) at the comment about having fight...

Well, no one else seemed to know. Maybe it'll help others. Micro's website features the information to avoid using it on acrylics, as both acrylics and micromask are water-based (or at least water-soluble). This certainly fits in with my experiments; acrylics (bottle or rattle-can), the micromask di...

I blush to admit that I use a variety of types. My preference is for acrylics (usually Model Master or Tamiya), for ease of cleanup and thinning. As I can't use my airbrush so much as I used to could, a lot of my base coats (the overall color of any given model) more and more often come from a Wally...

Hey, all Well, my adventures into learning to paint something besides a Zoid continue. I've tried scotch tape to mask off areas for paint/no-paint (paint leaked underneath the edge), Tamiya and architectural/drafting tape (paint leaked underneath the edge) and now Micro Mask. (Currently I'm having t...

Mr. Surfacer (and Aves, if I can find it somewhere) sound like the plan. Thanks, GF and Kekker both.

Davey

And... of course, after searching on my problem, finding nada that seemed to touch exactly on it, and replying to a couple of threads, I find this thread--which pretty much answers my question too. Argh. Granted, it's not primer I'm sanding away but 'base' coat, but I guess what applies applies. Now...

If it's any comfort, I've been using the same tube of Red Auto Body Putty for years now (Johnnycrash wasn't kidding when he said you get way more than you need), and to date I have yet to have it mar any styrene or plastic that I apply it to, whether I put it down 'raw' or thin it to nearly-paintlik...

Yes, believe it or not, I'm an adherent to One-Zero's rule about using the Search function before asking. I saw lots of interesting information, but nothing exactly like this. I have an Apollo 27 model. I expanded it with a 6" piece of appropriately-sized PVC, and right now (and from across the...

THANK YOU , Badwrench sama. I'd've likely spent a fair number of hours trying to figure out why things (including the stern and bow of the ship!) didn't want to stick. That also explains nicely why the PVC cement stuck like cement in the holes I dremeled out. Shall spend some time sanding a few tho...

Yeah, I realized that just after posting it ("d'oh"). I'm slated to be up in the Big City tomorrow; going to stop by my Dad's house and use his workshop full of power tools to true it and (within reason) smooth it. Gonna try the Lowe's re-visit and get some PVC glue, as it can't hurt to ha...

Just as a response to everybody: :) I got some epoxy (first time in my life, best of my knowledge, that I've used the stuff). Stuff bounced off the existing tube (even though it clung harder than the CA had). Still, I suppose it never hurts to have some on-hand. Took a sheet of styrene (I believe .4...

I was by Lowe's today, looking for something else, and snuck in a check of the PVC department. They had lots and lots of 1.5" PVC; it being not what I was after (and me not having brought a ruler, thinking the size on the label indicated the OD), I passed it by. Dang. On the other hand... I hav...

Hey, all First: I did use the forum search tools (thank you, Great One-Zero, for insisting on it) and found people asking a similar question. Those answers just didn't answer my question. I'm working on my Apollo 27 entries for the contest (three, so far; why?), and for one of them I'm thinking I'd ...

Replying to all (since replying to one doesn't seem to be showing up [it's a weird web day at work anyway]): yes, I'd like to keep the joint flexible. This is going to be part of a Zoids set, and everything <i>else</i> is flexible or posable. I thought about cloth, but I was afeared that it would sa...

I've got an older mecha kit I'm working on right now. Specifically, it's the <i>Driffand <b>Dal</b></i>, in its release as a Robotech Trigon. Age problems aside, most of the model looks good and goes well together, but where the two huge manipulator arms in the front join with their hinges at the 's...