Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I wrote a scribing article back in 2008... at the end I am using tape for 'curved' lines:

http://www.scihighmodels.com/howto_scrib.html

I wonder if this is any good. Probably similar to bare metail foil I guess (!?)

http://www.hlj.com/product/HSGTF1

I have no experience myself but I will sure follow this thread with great interest while looking at my new Naboo fighter

How about taping it to your stand using painting tape (the green one)?

I wonder if letting your casting set in a 'bath' of baby powder (talc based) for a few weeks would do any good? It's pretty absorbant...

... 4) Flex-i-Files ... I always thought you can achieve the same results with Flex-Pads but I might get one after reading more... http://www.flex-i-file.com/index.php Those are just my tools, mind you. I don't really consider masking tape, glue, etc. tools because they're consumed during the proce...

scratchy wrote:.25) pencil
.5) chop-it
.75) sheet of glass
1) ...

Hey, no cheating

What's the sheet of glass for?

Ahhhh, I see now.

AbsoluteSciFi wrote: 5) Baking Soda

What's the baking soda for?

I have just placed my order with UMM-USA ...Can't wait to try my new scribers! Thanks!

Thaks for the info on the Optivisors, guys!
I just noticed that Micro-Mark suggest magnifiers based on your working distance: http://www.micromark.com/Optivisor-Bino ... ,6711.html

I guess you can start with that; the 14 inches would be the best choice for me (#52388)

#2: UMM-USA scribing tool. That scriber just got onto my wanted list! http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_105&products_id=474&osCsid=nih01edqvg7ir1427eq59c4gv7 What might be interesting - is to document a build using only the tools you list! A very interesting and chall...

Kylwell is right. Even I was getting too excited by those 'new' tools that I forgot the question. Let's stick to it for now.

"if I were allow to bring only ten tools (or types/sets of tools) what would they be?"

Dude, you will not be disappointed. If you are worried that they might be expensive, cheap equivalents are available at lots of plces, including McMaster Carr. My el cheapo pair cost only $15 and work just fine. Try 'em! You'll like 'em! Paul Paul, can you point me out to a good one. I have checked...

Optivisor; I have never considered those before. Interesting... My eyes are 'bleeding' while doing tiny stuff. Maybe this is the solution. I must say, those Mission Models' scribers do look good: http://misc.kitreview.com/tools/microchiselreviewbg_2.htm Ahhh, the Chopper II! I have it and it's great...

Totally agree for the flexshaft. In fact, I have cheated as you can see the end of the shaft on this pic.

Tweezers!!! I should have put these in my top 10 as well (instead of the chisels probably...)

(a first post finally )

Yep, the good hand vice drill, a must for sure! Is the mori mori putty much better than Tamiya's? I didn't know about that one...

Someone recently asked me about the tooling I was using to scratchbuild kits . I am covering most of the building process on my website but I realized I never talked much about the tools used. This made me wonder... If I were allow to bring only ten tools (or types/sets of tools) what would they be?...

I have tried many things to stop bad castings from 'bleeding' (simple green, baby powder, oven, primers of all kind, etc.) and nothing worked on the long run except sealing the affected area with a very thin coat of CA glue (Wave's black CA in this case). Of course casting a new one is best if it is...

Your other option might be to use it as a pattern to recast yourself a good kit. A slightly oily surface should not prevent the silicon from curing but that remains to be tested.

Seems like a good technique, thanks! However I'm affraid my airbrush skills aren't good enough for little impacts. Instead, I have tried using the same approach I did earlier but using mostly micro brushes: http://www.flickr.com/photos/adumas02/5269009391/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/adumas02/52690...

I used Model Master's enamel grey diluted in thinner (1 part of paint for 4 parts of thinner). I should have used a lighter grey or a bit more thinner in my opinion. I agree, the blast marks with a dark contrast around the impact are much better. I tried to do so in fact but the surface got too glos...

Thanks for your input, guys! First, the goal here was to have a week-end project (I really needed that...) where I could try a few new weathering techniques. I chose to built the new Revell Republic Gunship and wanted to give it that 'hard week' look without altering the factory paint... But just by...

I am working on my Revell Gunship and I would like to add some 'battle history' to it. Do you guys have any good techniques to simulate large and small phaser blast hits?

I have been testing with oil paint and pastels but nothing convincing so far

Thanks!

DennisH wrote:http://scihighmodels.com/howto_shrink.html

Bookmarks are your friend!

Alex Dumas has it all worked out.
Dennis

By the way, I have just revised my article with some new pics
http://www.scihighmodels.com/howto_shrink.html

I use lego blocks as well but less than before as I tend to use 'L' shape styrene walls instead (to make adjustable forms). They are more tight and a lot easier to clean and prep IMHO. You can try putting the uncured silicon in the oven at 100F for a few hours (that's what Smooth-On recommends anywa...

I have been using MoldMax 30 for years and I think it's the best stuff to date. Those spills will take longer to cure but they will... However, since you and I don't have that time to wait, I always pour my molds on papers and throw it away once I'm done. As for spills left onto my tools and forms, ...

I use 3M flexible tape and it works very good http://www.scihighmodels.com/howto_scrib.html

honestly, I've been thinking about this and come to the conclusion that I don't think it will work. This is mainly because in a two part mold, you will have a different volume of RTV back side verses the front, So with that in mind, my best estimate is this will only work for single open cavity mol...

Migmaker wrote:I see these are open cavity molds, same work for 2 part molds?
Will

I haven't tried 2 parts molds but it should work.

I have been reducing kit parts for my current project (the Swift from Space 1999) and some of you have asked for my recipy so I wrote a quick article, here it is

http://scihighmodels.com/howto_shrink.html